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"The Rounds" February 6,
2004
Mekhong Kurt * * * * * * * * * * Thailand Confident Avian Flu Can be Beaten A Reuters report available here says the Thai government is confident the avian flu outbreak is well on its way to being contained, as the number of danger zones has dropped dramatically -- and rapidly. There are said to be 4 deaths in the Kingdom and 13 around the region from the avian flu virus confirmed, those some observers claim more than those deaths have occurred but not reported. More anecdotes have come my way regarding cancellations by people who previously intended to come here which I continue to believe is a great over-reaction. While there well may have been unreported deaths in Thailand and elsewhere -- particularly China, which is rumored to have had cases as long ago in October but covered up -- the numbers are still miniscule. Don't misunderstand me: if medical authorities find the virus has mutated and is transmitted between people, that'll be another story, at least until medical science comes up with a shot to prevent and/or cure the infection. But even then, people intending to travel to East Asia ought to consider the numbers carefully. Even if 90% of the cases have been hidden, we're still talking about a tiny, tiny number. Thailand is an attractive destination, especially in terms of cost. There are few places in this part of the world where you can stay in, for example, a nice 3-star hotel that ought to be rated 4 stars for under US$30 a night -- breakfast included. (More about the particular hotel I have in mind later in this edition.) Even at the Mandarin Oriental, widely considered to the the queen of Bangkok's numerous hotels, has Internet rates as low as US$210 for a regular room in the low season to US$375 for a deluxe room -- in the high season. And those rates for the Oriental include the 10% service charge and government-imposed 7% VAT tax. Compare those rates to the ones in most other regional capitals. True, the Mandarin Oriental has similar rates, at least this time of year, topping out at about US$312 (in December they near IS$400) -- but February is hardly the month of choice for visiting there. Besides, everything else is extremely expensive there compared to similar products and services here. At the opposite end of the scale, rooms can be had -- decent rooms -- for well under 10 bucks a night. And for the really strapped, Khao San Road is famous, especially among backpackers, famous in large measure because of the numerous guest houses there that have rooms as cheap as about US$2.50 a night (cold-water communal toilet down the hall, with only a fan in the room). And when you read that at least 25 million chickens have been slaughtered in Thailand alone, it's best to remember that the culling was preventative, not that anyone ever said that every single one of those chickens had avian flu. * * * * * * * * * * Regency Park Hotel I said I would say more about the 3-star hotel I mentioned above, so I'll do so right now, before I forget. It's the Regency Park Hotel in Sukhumvit Soi 22 about 100 meters off Sukhumvit Road. Right now at the hotel's special Internet rates page one can book a regular room for US$29 and a deluxe room for US$40. I've stayed in regular rooms there on 2 occasions, and found the hotel a real bargain -- 10% service charge and 7% VAT tax included! What is billed as "American breakfast: is included, but that's really an understatement, as breakfast in fact consists of an Oriental buffet and/or made-to-order American breakfast foods -- and it's an all-you-can-eat proposition, making the rates especially attractive to anyone who likes to eat a big breakfast. And it's offered until 11:00 A.M., so even late sleepers can go gorge themselves. The rooms are extremely nice. In fact, if I could justify spending around US770 a month for a serviced deluxe room, I would live there in a heartbeat. (Hey, I'm not a Bill Gates!) And the service is superb. Last time I stayed there, in June of 2002, I went to book a twin room for my sister and I. The clerk recognized me and recommended if go to a computer and book the room over the Internet as he couldn't give me a walk-in rate to match it. His steering me that way saved me, at the exchange rate of the time, about US$12 per night -- and you can darned sure bet I made it a point to mention it to Victor, an affable manager there. Here's a photo I copied from the web site of a standard room:
And the location is excellent, even for those who need to spend time "downtown" in the central business district (Sathorn, Silom, and Suriwongse Roads), as there is the right-around-the-corner Skytrain station in front of The Emporium (about a 10-minute walk from the hotel). If one gets off at the Sala Daeng Station, near Patpong, he finds himself right in the heat of the business disctrict on Silom Road. Even the the necessary line change, you will be downtown (or back) in about 15 minutes. It's convenient to eatery and entertainment areas, including Nana Plaza-Sukhumvit Soi 4, Soi Cowboy, Washington Square-Queen's Park Plaza-Sukhumvit Soi 22, Sukhumvit Soi 33, Soi Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55), Soi Ekhamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) and Royal City Avenue (better known, simply, as "RCA"). The Queen Sirikit Convention Center is nearby, on Soi Asoke. A small but lovely park dedicated to Her Majesty the Queen is nearby, nestled between The Emporium and Washington Square. All in all, Regency Park Hotel is hard to beat, by just about any measure. And no, no one bribed me to write this -- I just plain like the place, and always recommend it, even to the well-heeled traveler. So there! * * * * * * * * * * More Good Banking News A guy told me the other day that he was surprised to read my recent item about Thai Farmer Bank's Sukhumvit Soi 33 branch being open on Sunday, and wondered why I was surprised. When I told him I knew of no other bank having Sunday hours, he said there is 1 in Future Park and 4 more in the CarreFour shopping center in far north Bangkok beside the Airport Motorway -- all 5 from 11 A.M. until 10 P.M. on Sundays, and all offering full banking services the whole time. I don't know how widespread this is, but it surely will be nice and convenient if it becomes the rule rather than the exception. The guy didn't tell me which banks are represented, but whichever ones they are deserve kudos. * * * * * * * * * * Odd Aviation Security Story: Solved Last week I wrote about what I thought was odd security regulation Thai International enforced when I flew up to Laos on my most recent trip. A friend who flies extensively within the Kingdom and around the region told me my speculation that perhaps the fact that the Udorn Thani flight is a domestic one while the Vientiane one is an international one is indeed the reason -- different regulations for different kinds of flights. Even so, it still seems a bit strange to me -- domestic flights aren't at risk, too??? * * * * * * * * * * The Bangkok
Post Makes It I was surprised today when I accessed the newspaper's web site and clicked on a story to read, only to be sent to a fairly lengthy registration page. I was at first suspicious I was going to learn I would have to pay from now on, which I wouldn't do. So, after stidying the form, I went ahead and filled it out. "So," you ask, "what was the story about?" But I can't tell you anything beyond the introduction because when I tried to log in -- repeatedly -- I kept getting a message telling me my username or password was incorrect. I finally clicked on the "New password" button -- and got sent right back to the registration page. Irked, I filled it out again anyway. "Ah," you're no doubt saying, "so now you can tell me about the story!" Wrong. It was the same thing all over again, except when I clicked the "New password" button and got sent back to the registration page for a third go at it, I thought "To heck with it, and with The Bangkok Post." And I closed the window. I'm frankly suspicious of this move. For one thing, one question asks you what features you normally read -- and the choices include Bernard Trink's axed-for-six-weeks+ column, "Nite Owl." That doesn't speak well for competence. I last accessed the paper's web site within this last week and read some stories without having to do anything other than the previously normal click on the story link, so this is new, and someone should have caught that before putting the page into use. Now, as far as my own difficulties are concerned, the most likely explanation -- most likely by far -- is technical. But a remote second possibility nags at the back of my mind: censorship. I know the paper hasn't published but 2 letters from me in a long time -- and one of those had nothing to do with Thailand, while the other was a praising one. It wouldn't be technically difficult to have a database of names to block from registering. Again, this is a faint possibility -- but even faint possibilities are possible. Whatever the explanation, this lowers my opinion of Thailand's leading (by circulation numbers) English language even further than the depths to which it had already sunk, especially after the axing of Trink. In my opinion, it's poor marketing to make it more difficult to access the web site; just think about how many people in other countries access it if for no other reason than the paper isn't available wherever they are, other than through an expensive foreign subscription. I know I'm strongly disinclined from ever even attempting to register again. There was an option to e-mail the web master, but I asked myself, "Why should I have to do that? I've already wasted enough time on a paper that has become largely pabulum, to my taste, anyway." * * * * * * * * * * Tightening of Controls on Foreigners I've just heard something rather disturbing. A foreign buddy of mine lives here in Bangkok and said his apartment building's management staff gave his wife a form for him to fill out giving his name and other details, including passport dates of issue and expiry, arrival card number, type and length of visa, and the dates of the visa's issuance and expiry. When the wife asked why, she was told the police had come around and instructed them to collect the information on all foreigners living in the complex to turn into the police. While the use of informants is widespread among police around the world, for Thai police to be put in a situation in which they have to enlist civilians to assist in the performance of law enforcement duties is sad, at best. True, at this point I don't know if this is restricted to my friend's building, or if it will eventually be required for all foreigners residing here (or visiting for a lengthy period). There very well may be a perfectly good reason for the move on a national basis; after all, every nation tries to control its borders, and I can't fault them for that. We'll just have to wait to see how this plays out. . . .
A Pleasant Tale about Bangkok Taxis In the past week or so, I've had the pleasant experience not only of having 2 English-speaking taxi drivers, but having them actually know where Washington Square is, something surprisingly few do know. Often, even those who speak English will know The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 33, Sukhumvit Soi 22, the Imperial Queen's Park Hotel, etc. -- but scrath their heads and say, "I still don't know where Washington Square is." One of the drivers was especially interesting. I tried in my near-zero, broken, wrong-toned Thai to say "I want to go to Washington Square." He looked at me and smiled, then said -- in perfect American English -- and asked, "Would you like to go to Washington Square?" I affirmed my destination, then asked if he worked for the American military during the Vietnam War, as a lot of men his age did. He laughed and said "No, but I was born and grew up in Topeka, Kansas then went to Kansas State. I've retired here now." The ride was short, so I didn't have time to learn more, but it sure was nice to have someone with whom I could readily communicate and who was so open and friendly. It does seem that there are more English-speaking drivers coming into taxi service, but the increase is still small and proceeds at a snail's pace. Still, it is progress. Given the number of Chinese, Japanese, and Koreans who come here, it would be a good idea for taxi companies to hire drivers who can speak those languages. * * * * * * * * * * Great Air Fares
on Air Asia -- Air Asia, the joint-venture airline owned by Shinawatra Corp. and Malaysis has taken wing, and is offering some great domestic fares from it's hub at Bangkok International Airport (Don Muang Airport). You have until
February 11th to book for travel from February 24th through March 27th (of this
year) to 4 domestic destinations. Here they are with the one-way fares;
simply double the number to determine the return-fare cost.
These are GREAT fares, any way you look at it. By way of comparison, Thai charges 2,170 baht for it's one-way ticket to Chiang Mai -- over 3½ times as much as Air Asia's special promotional fare. (By the way, the fares shown don't included taxes, etc. -- but still, the price is definitely right!) True, there are only 4 (domestic) destinations -- but that's just for now; the number is expected to grow fairly quickly. By the way, there's also a flight from Kuala Lumpur to Bangkok and back shown for just over 1,000 baht, one way. I assume the same fare applies if one wants to fly from Bangkok to KL. You can even book online, which isn't an oddity these days, true, but it's nice the airline has included that capability right from the start. Just go to http://airasia.com and follow the instructions there. But don't forget this promotion ends next Wednesday, so if you want to travel during the designated time period, be sure to book by then, especially since I found no indication what the fares will be after the promotion ends, though I've read the airline intends to undercut Thai's fares even when it institutes its regular fare schedule. Heck, I don't have any special reason to leave Bangkok right now -- but I well may fly up to Chiang Mai, which I've never visited, simply because it's so cheap to fly up there now! * * * * * * * * * * A New Traveler's Tale I received an interesting submission from an acquaintance telling the story of his and his wife's trip to Malaysia some years ago, a story focusing on the kindnesses with which they were met along the way. You can read it here. And it's well worth reading, as it emphasizes the Muslim angle, a refreshing counter-balance to the widespread anti-all-Muslims attitude so prevalent in these dark post-9/11 days. * * * * * * * * * * Nice Comments
from I received 2 really nice e-mails and 2 verbal comments from readers complimenting the column I posted January 30th, compliments based on 2 aspects: the story about my friends in Laos and the use of photographs in the column. Perhaps the most moving comment to me was made by a friend when we bumped into each other. He said he was really touched by the paragraph I wrote about my friend Nicky in which I commented it's people like her who inspired me as a teacher. His own emotional reaction was so evident as he spoke with me that I couldn't help but be moved in turn. I don't get a lot of feedback on the column, and it's not always positive, of course. But even the negative is virtually always in the form of constructive criticism, so most of the bit of feedback I do get is itself encouraging to me as a writer and web master. I hope any of you will always feel free to let me know about anything -- positive or negative -- you think and feel about something I've written. * * * * * * * * * * Another Nice Story -- About a Bar Owner The bars of Bangkok are filled with countless stories of various rip-offs by the bar staff and/or owners. But as is so often the case, we don't talk much about the good stuff. For once I'd like to say something good about a bar owner. Khun Ni is a lovely lass I've known ever since she started to work at The Silver Dollar Bar in Washington Square some years back. Eventually she met and moved in with a nice foreign guy. Later, when Queen's Park Plaza opened, she and a couple of her friends, also veterans from The Silver Dollar Bar, opened the tiny For You Bar near the rear of the plaza. It's one of my regular watering holes. A few evenings ago I was in The Silver Dollar and Khun Ni was there, visiting the owners and her old friends, both staff and customers. As she was leaving she approached me to say good-bye, adding in deeply serious tones she needed to speak with me later privately about something important. I promised her I would come around her bar later in the evening, which I did. During the interval, I worried. I had overheard her telling someone that after a long struggle she had made a very tough personal decision, a life-changing one, so I thought perhaps that was what she wanted to speak about. But I'm such a mother hen that other dark scenarios went through my mind -- illness, financial failure, you name it, I thought it. I finally went by to see her. She took me outside the bar and began apologizing to me, tears beginning to form in her eyes. I asked her what in the world she was doing apologizing to me, since she's has never wronged me in any way, shape, or form at all, not ever, not to even the smallest degree. I downright adore her, and always have. Her answer? "One night a week or so ago, the cashier wasn't here and one of the bartendees wrote your bill, but she overcharged you. She knows you always drink either Mekhong Coke or Jack Daniels and water, but Mekhong Coke costs 50 baht while Jack Daniels is 90 baht. She accidentally charged you 90 baht for a Mekhong Coke." I headed her off at the pass, assuring her it was no big deal, particularly considering how many times she and her partners had given me drinks on the house. But she refused to stop worrying, expressing fear that I would think her bar to be a rip-off place and stop coming myself, and the additional fear that I might tell her regulars, most of whom I know, that. I finally got her calmed down and to believe me that it truly wasn't important to me. So what if I was inadvertently overcharged 1 single American dollar and a bit??? I wouldn't even let her bring up the possibility of paying me back, telling her I didn't care about the money, to be quiet and go back inside with me so I could buy her a drink. But before we went back in, she did add she had been worried sick about it because she values not only my business but my friendship, and that she had gone to The Silver Dollar primarily in hopes of seeing me, since she hadn't, by pure coincidence, seen me since the incident took place. Now, that's nice enough in its own right. But I firmly believe Khun Ni would worry just as much had I been a complete stranger -- that's the kind of lady -- and I emphasize lady -- she and her partners are. How many people would go so much out of their way to track down a customer overcharged so little -- and overcharged through innocent accident? We complain loudly -- and swiftly -- when we're screwed around, so we need to be just as loud and swift in acknowledging the reverse. And to do so is my intent here. Kudos to you, your partners, and your staff, Khun Ni. * * * * * * * * * * E-mail Change Notification Sign-up Sign-up here for e-mail notification when I add or change something on the site. Just go to the sign-up page. * * * * * * * * * * Where Is *Your* Name??? So you've been a slacker and still haven't signed up for the free BangkokAtoZ.com Updates Mailing List??? ;-) Well, get with the program and sign up right now to be notified via e-mail whenever we add something to the site -- that way, you don't even have to visit the Updates Page to see if there's anything new -- we'll let you know by e-mail. If you want to sign up, just go to the sign-up page. I'm pleased to say that more and more of you are signing up, and I urge all of you not to hesitate! * * * * * * * * * * Where is *Your* "Traveller's Tale"??? Got a "Traveler's Tale"? -- send me a line! Just send me a *query* note at MekhongKurt@BangkokAtoZ.com. * * * * * * * * * * Linking to BangkokAtoZ.com If anyone reading this has a website and would like to place a link there for BangkokAtoZ.com, you can copy-and-paste the banner and text link below into your site; they are live links to this site's homepage:
I'll appreciate an e-mail telling me the URL of where you placed it. If you want me to put a link on BangkokAtoZ.com for your site, do tell me where you have placed our link, and I'll give you a link in a comparable position, of the same nature (i.e., banner-for-banner, text-for-text). * * * * * * * * * * Until next time -- Mekhong Kurt Return to the Table of Contents.
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