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"The Rounds" Friday, April 9, 2004
* * * * * * * * * * Terrible Day for U.S. in Iraq On the face of it, it might seem the deaths of 7 American troops in Iraq last Sunday has nothing to do with Thailand -- but that's not the case. Thailand has been supportive of U.S.-led activities in the benighted nation, with Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra taking unpopular decisions in support of coalition aims there. Therefore, for better or worse, the Thai people have a vested interest in what happens there -- especially given the presence of Thai troops on Iraqi soil. It's not easy to keep a clear head in moments such as this, but it's imperative we all separate our thoughts about the individual troops, of whatever coalition nation, from our thoughts about the various governments involved and, indeed, about those governments' ultimate purposes in being part of the coalition in the first place. While the troops were part of an all-volunteer force, it's important we remember they were not part of the apparatus making U.S. decisions, but ordinary people serving, in their own eyes, their nation. And 7 men made the ultimate sacrifice last Sunday in furtherance of that service. I didn't have the privilege of knowing any of the slain soldiers, but I assure one and all that my heart goes out to their memory, each and every one of them, and to the loved ones they left behind. And, by the way, I feel precisely the same about the soldiers of other nations, including Thailand's, who also have paid the price of their lives in service to their country. Cleric Al-Sadr, leader of the group which was engaged in combat with U.S. troops that led to the deaths of the 7 American soldiers, brings disgrace on his avowed Islamic faith. Indisputably a firebrand, he favors Iran, of all places -- hardly a bastion of governmental decency, modernity, democracy, or much of anything else positive (despite a wonderful history, a history itself also beyond dispute). An arrest warrant has been issued by the provisional government in Iraq, and I hope he is swiftly arrested. He is reported to be hiding out in a mosque, which puts military and civil police authorities in a dilemma, as no one wants to soil a holy place, nor to be seen as doing so. Such firebrands, of whatever faith, do their fellow religionists no good. Though it's anathema for an American citizen to say this (and I am American), I despise the religious zealots leading the Israeli occupation of areas of disputed territories, just as I despise "Christian," "Hindu," or any other faith's so-called adherents who advocate violating the human rights of another religious group's members. And yes, my use of quotation marks in labeling such people is intentionally sarcastic, as I view such people with utter, total, complete contempt. [Written Tuesday, April 6, 2004] [Late Note: More American Marines have been killed or wounded, as have even more still Iraqis. It has been a terrible week. [Written Friday, April 9, 2004] * * * * * * * * * * Crystal Bar, Washington Square: Open? Closed? Changed Hours? I don't know what's going on at Crystal Bar -- indeed, I don't know if anything is going on there. I went there Monday evening about 10:45 P.M., intending to have a drink and ask Deer, the owner, if she had changed her opening hour to a later time -- but the bar was closed, steel shutter down. Some people feel Deer isn't the right sort of person to be running a bar, some of them feeling she is unfriendly. I think she has come to recognize that one has to deal with the public in a way conducive to building and retaining a customer base, a belief on my part based on my direct observation of her obvious efforts to be warm and friendly to her customers. I do know that one difficulty she faces is that of staff retention. In bars in Thailand, for better or for worse, it is the girls who ultimately build clientele, including those girls who are not available for pay-to-play. (I don't mean to be offensive to those whose moral standards are such that they object to the notion of pay-for-play, only to discuss the reality on the ground here.) I don't know why Deer has trouble keeping employees, only that her employees come and go pretty much on a revolving door basis. Crystal Bar is a very pleasant place in many ways, so I hope it remains in operation. I'll let you know as I learn more. [Written Tuesday, April 6, 2004] [Late Note: I went by the bar 3 times Tuesday night, and 2 or 3 times Wednesday and Thursday nights; it was closed each time I went there, from early evening right through to late evening. But I should add it has been closed before, only to re-open weeks later, under the same ownership.] * * * * * * * * * * Songkhran Looms; Mekhong Kurt Flees the Scene I was vastly relieved yesterday when a travel agent was able to secure an air ticket with confirmed reservations both directions allowing me to flee the scene this coming Sunday and remain outside the Kingdom during the madness that has become the signature of the tradition-laden (and traditionally beautiful) Thai New Year, known as "Songkhran" in Thai. I'll be flying to The Jewel of the Orient -- Hongkong -- midday Sunday, then hopping onto a jetfoil to Macau for a long-anticipated visit, one I'm especially looking forward to as circumstances have prevented me returning to my favorite place on the face of the planet since my last visit there in August, 2002. So, next week's column will be at least partly about that [formerly] Portagee Paradise. To those of you who have never visited Macau, should you find yourself anywhere in the Pearl River Delta region -- bounded, roughly, by the Hongkong-Macau-Guangzhou triangle [Guangzhou is "Canton" to you Citizens of Empire ;-)] -- you really should take the time to visit it. Parts of it could for all the world be somewhere on the European coast of the Mediterranean Sea, and are stunningly beautiful. Views of the South China Sea and the islands dotting it from Macau's Coloane Island are breath-taking, especially on moonlit nights, and at sunrise and sunset. And although Macau is overshadowed by its vastly larger neighbors, Hongkong and Guangzhou, it really doesn't get its due shrift from international travelers. True, the view from The Peak on Hongkong Island is arguably unparalleled anywhere in the world. True, Guangzhou is a sprawling megalopolis on par with Bangkok, and is distinctly Chinese in character. But Macau is a blend of the Chinese and Mediterranean cultures unique in the world. And in just about every way, the return of Macau to Chinese sovereignty has been far calmer than the return of Hongkong has proven to be. (Even today there was news that people in Hongkong are upset at what they see as interference in local affairs by Beijing.) I'm probably one of the best "walking advertisements" for Macau on earth, with good reason. I really love the place, and am eager to get back there. I heartily recommend Macau as a destination in its own right, and I don't mean as a day trip from Hongkong; half the time is consumed with getting there and back, by the time you consider getting to the ferry/helicopter terminal, going through passport control and customs' formalities (on both ends, even if you're a citizen of one or the other), then getting out and about to see the city. Stay at least one night -- and no, I'm not getting any commissions! [Written Tuesday, April 6, 2004] * * * * * * * * * * Tribute to a True Gentleman (The following is a short piece praising my good friend "Bear" on the occasion of his 60th birthday. I printed it out and gave him a copy. Some of you know Bear, so O thought it appropriate to share the piece with you here. It also is permanently available from this site's "Vignettes" page.) Sunday, April 4, 2004 marked the 60th birthday of my most excellent friend, Colonel William "Bear" Hudson [U.S. Army-Ret.]. Celebrations were held Saturday, Sunday, and Monday in his honor – and justly so. Bear, as we all call him with great affection, is the finest example of gentlemanly comport it has ever been my pleasure, indeed my privilege, to know. He is universally admired and respected. In Asian cultures, a person’s 60th birthday is particularly significant. For numerological reasons related to the traditional Chinese calendar, not only is it an individual’s 5th-cycle birthday (based on the 12-year rotation through the signs of the Chinese zodiac), but for reasons I don’t need to bore you with here, it is first among equals in cycle birthdays. Bear has had a colorful life. A veteran of Vietnam, he served there in the artillery. After a variety of assignments spanning the globe, by-then Colonel Hudson served as military spokesperson for President Reagan’s Secretary of Defense, Casper Weinberger, upon the completion of which duty he took well-deserved retirement. But that hardly meant he wanted to "hang up his hardware" and go fishing. No, indeed! Bear moved to Thailand in the early 1990’s, and has a fascinating life here, both personally and professionally. After holding a variety of job postings, he landed a spot as chief of Asian operations for European Land Solutions, a company specializing in landmine removal, weapon decommissioning, etc. As former officer in combat arms, he certainly is well-qualified on the hardware end of things for such a major assignment, and his extensive work with the media during his long Army career suits him eminently for the sales and public relations aspects such a position demands. His lengthy command experience qualifies him for the management aspects of his post. It is an immensely responsible job, one which Bear is performing well – and I speak as one who has met his most senior direct boss, who told me in a forthright manner how much he and the company value Bear’s unending, tireless efforts to forward company goals in Asia as we move further into The Pacific Century. Of more importance to me, personally, than his work is his . . . well his humanity. Bear in kind beyond words. He also is a man of the deepest personal honor and integrity, a man for whom any of us are here should he ever find himself in an hour of need. I join his many friends in saluting him for his kindness, honor, integrity, and plain human decency. Bear, to speak to you directly now, thank you for inviting me to be part of the festivities associated with this most auspicious birthday – and thank you from the depths of my soul for being the wonderful, wonderful friend you are. I look forward to celebrating Many Happy Returns with you, Sir. [Written Tuesday, April 6, 2004] * * * * * * * * * * Disappearance
of Prominent Muslim Lawyer Reported Muslim lawyer Somchai Neelaphaijit has been missing nearly a month now, but news media outlets reported yesterday investigators are closing in on suspected rogue police officers they believe abducted him. The lawyer has defended a number of high-profile suspects and been active in promoting civil and human rights in southern Thailand, and is widely respected. Investigators apparently believe certain police officers were unhappy with his activities related to the unrest in the South since early this year and abducted him. Deputy Prime Minister raised eyebrows when he testified to members of Parliament and mentioned the lawyer was dead -- though the official government position is that his fate is unknown. Immediately after the lawyer's mysterious disappearance, his wife reported him missing to the police. Prime Minister Thaksin understandably attempted to calm initial fears and reactions, especially of the Muslim community concentrated in southern Thailand, publicly remarking he felt, at that point, that the likeliest explanation was a family spat. The observation boomeranged on the P.M., who found himself facing a barrage of scorn and criticism. (I personally feel that given the tense situation in the south, where dozens have been killed in apparent terrorist attacks since the beginning of this year, P.M. Thaksin was right to try to head off any violent reaction to the lawyer's disappearance. You can read the Bangkok Post Tuesday report here. Meanwhile today's Nation has an article with the headline "MISSING LAWYER: ‘Rogue cop’ offers to talk." This apparent kidnapping has brought great interest around the world, and the spotlight is very much on the authorities to solve this case, and, if the missing man is alive, to rescue him. [Written Wednesday, April 7, 2004] [Late Note: In a dramatic development Thursday night, 4 police officers accused in the disappearance of the lawyer surrendered to police at Phayathai Station after a judge signed warrants sought for their arrests. You can read one story in The Bangkok Post headlined "Four Police Officers Surrender" and another in The Nation headlined "ABDUCTED LAWYER: COPS SURRENDER." It is becoming increasingly evident that police were involved in the lawyer's disappearance, though the initial charges fall short of accusations of abduction -- something that can be added later should investigators develop sufficient evident.] * * * * * * * * * * Carry Your
Passports from My contact in Immigration Headquarters and I ran into each other last night,
and he told me that we foreigners must have our passports on us for these 9 days
or risk being detained and spending hours at a police station until the legality
of our presence is established. The targeted areas for enforcement in Bangkok
are the Patpong area, Nana Plaza-Soi Zero area, Soi Cowboy and environs,
Sukhumvit Soi 33, the general neighborhood of Washington Square-Sukhumvit Soi
22-Queen’s Park Plaza, and Khao San Road. I mentioned this to a few friends last night, some of whom scoffed at me.
While it is true you may be able to worm your way out of it should you be
caught, it hardly seems worth the risk to me. I normally don’t carry my
passport, either; having had 4 stolen in 19 years makes me wary. (And yes, they
were stolen, not lost; I had quite a brouhaha with an American employee
of the American Citizen Services office here in Bangkok when he incorrectly
circled "Lost" in the stamp on the last page of my replacement
passport then refused to change it to circle the choice "Stolen" when
I brought the error to his attention, reminding him that both the municipal and
immigration police accepted my contention I had been robbed at gunpoint, and had
written their reports reflecting that.) [Written Friday, April 9, 2004] * * * * * * * * * * Birthday Party for "Australia" Jim Monday the 26th Friends of the affable Jim are invited to his birthday bash this coming Monday at Madam Claude Bar just off Sukhumvit Soi 33; festivities commence at 7:00 P.M. There will be free food for Jim's friends; no doubt the bell will ring! Madam Claude is tucked away down a short drive almost directly opposite Degas Bar. It's a pleasant place, with a ground floor and an upper loft with seating. * * * * * * * * *
* I didn't mention this last week, since my column then went up just 1 day into the month, but I now can say with certainty that bars are closing earlier than they were. Now even in world-famous Patpong they are closing at 1:00 P.M. in response to orders issued as part of the government's "Social Order Crusade." I know of another venue, Queen's Park Plaza on Sukhumvit Soi 22, where bars were told last month to start closing at midnight; why the difference? -- I don't know. One friend reports police have shown up on force at Nana Plaza to make sure all the venues there were closed by 1:00 A.M. sharp. If the numerous bars owners I have heard talking are right, economically this tightening of the screws will backfire against the government's desire (especially over at the Tourism Authority of Thailand) not only to remain a favorite tourist destination but to draw ever more visitors -- and I strongly suspect they may very well be right in that assessment. For better or worse, the nightlife is a huge draw for a large number of foreign visitors, the main one for quite a few. * * * * * * * * *
* Sign-up here for e-mail notification when I add or change something on the site. Just go to the sign-up page. * * * * * * * * * * So you've been a slacker and still haven't signed up for the free BangkokAtoZ.com Updates Mailing List??? ;-) Well, get with the program and sign up right now to be notified via e-mail whenever we add something to the site -- that way, you don't even have to visit the Updates Page to see if there's anything new -- we'll let you know by e-mail. If you want to sign up, just go to the sign-up page. I'm pleased to say that more and more of you are signing up, and I urge all of you not to hesitate! * * * * * * * * * * Where is *Your* "Traveler's Tale"??? Got a "Traveler's Tale"? -- send me a line! Just send me a *query* note at MekhongKurt@BangkokAtoZ.com. * * * * * * * * * * Linking to BangkokAtoZ.com If anyone reading this has a website and would like to place a link there for BangkokAtoZ.com, you can copy-and-paste the banner and text link below into your site; they are live links to this site's homepage: I'll appreciate an e-mail telling me the URL of where you placed it. If you want me to put a link on BangkokAtoZ.com for your site, do tell me where you have placed our link, and I'll give you a link in a comparable position, of the same nature (i.e., banner-for-banner, text-for-text). * * * * * * * * * * Enough for one go . . . Until next time -- Mekhong Kurt
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