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"The Rounds"
Report on Three Nana Area Places Makybe Diva in Record Third Win at The Melbourne Cup Greenpeace's Rainbow Warrior Responsible for Damage to Coral Reef in the Philippines A Thought for the Late Brother of Charlie Brown Veterans and Remembrance Day Friday Office Bar & Grill Sports Broadcast Schedule American Thanksgiving at Texas Lone Staar Christopher G. Moore Book-Signing * * * * * * * * * * Just a reminder you can sign-up for free to receive the BangkokAtoZ.com Updates (plain text) e-mail to always know when I add something new to the site or modify it in some important way. A great way to be sure YOU don't miss something of interest, best of all is that this service is absolutely FREE! * * * * * * * * * * Report on Three Nana Area Places Tuesday, November 8, 2005 Weekend-before-last a friend and I who needed to straighten out air tickets for our then-upcoming trip to Cambodia last week (about which more a bit later). I, of course, went to the wrong place -- I had the agency where I had ordered the ticket via phone mixed up with another one nearby we had used before -- but we did hook up, and he suggested we make a stop or two in the Soi Nana area. We stopped first at Bully's, a fairly new place. (There was another place there previously; I think it was called Blue Wave or something like that.) It's located on Sukhumvit Road between Sois 2 and 4. My friend had been there before; it was my first visit. I found it, in a word, impressive. It's quite large. There is a covered porch outside with a few stools and a narrow ledge atop the rails lining the street side of the porch. One thing I noted was that there were sufficient stools, but not so many as to make the space at all crowded. This open space concept carries on inside as well. There's a nice bar along the front part of the right wall, with cocktail tables and chairs scattered comfortably around the front 2/3's or so of the open space. The rear of the bar stretches the full width of the premises, and houses several pool tables and dart boards. The music was also good, loud enough to hear easily, low enough we could converse with equal ease. The service was good, though the young lady who first attended us must have been rather new, as she seemed uncertain. She also apparently spoke no English. When I tried to order something from the menu by pointing to the number, she cast about anxiously and caught the eye of another waitress, one who did speak English and who came to sort things out. I had a Jack Daniels-water; my friend had a vodka tonic. Both were generous servings, and the bartender clearly knew how to pour a good drink: mine had exactly the right proportions of the Jack, water, and ice. A bit hungry, I decided to try the chili con carne. It was excellent. Spicy without being too hot for a palate geared to the not-too-mild but not-too-spicy, the overall flavor was about as good as I've had in Bangkok -- indeed, better than a lot I've had even in Texas (where we do know a thing or two about Tex Mex cuisine). I liked the waitress' solution when I asked for Tabasco. First she brought a steak sauce, then ketchup. So, she went back to the serving station and brought the entire basket, which of course had Tabasco in it. I did have one tiny complaint, but it's so common here I'm pretty used to it. We were seated at a table quite close to the front door. It was late afternoon, and though the day wasn't all that hot (by our standards here), it was on the rather warmish side. The temperature inside was quite pleasant until a staff member went over and threw the door wide open. It's a tired joke among the Westerners here in Asia that Asians sure are generous, trying, as they routinely do, try to cool the entire region in this fashion. (At least she closed it in a few minutes.) I will be visiting Bully's again.
Bully's Pub (next to the J. W.
Marriot Hotel) Our next stop was G-Spot A-Go-Go in Nana Plaza proper, 1 floor up at the back right corner. We should have checked the time, as it was a bit before 7:00 P.M. and the dancing hadn't started yet. Some of the girls were busy with their make-up, while others appeared to be in a staff meeting. We did have a couple drinks. I was sorry we got there too early; when I used to go to Nana Plaza regularly years ago, G-Spot was always a regular stop for me. Some of the girls danced quite well, as opposed to being the more typical "chrome pole shufflers" who are about as inspiring as growing grass. The place also offered (and still does, I think) a body painting show that was astonishing; the artists drew the most intricate of pictures and designs in just a few minutes. Next time I'll remember to go a bit later. Just down the breezeway from that venue is Rainbow 4 A-Go-Go. The girls were beginning to dance as we arrived, so our timing was a bit better. My friend has been there a number of times so slightly knows a few of the girls, some of whom came a sat with us. All spoke English at least decently, and while I was a listener (not knowing any of the ladies myself), it was enjoyable. If you enjoy graceful feminine beauty, this is a very good place to go, as it was when I used to be a Nana regular. (I think it had a different name then, but never mind -- I recognized both the outside and inside.) There are so many truly beautiful ladies that it takes awhile to register that of course few stand out -- it's hard to achieve that there! Even the chrome pole shufflers were so attractive it was easy to watch them. It was a pleasant change from what my routine has become; I haven't been inside Nana Plaza proper at all in about 3 years, and not at night for even longer than that. I'll have to add it back for the occasional drop-by visit. * * * * * * * * * * Third Win at the Melbourne Cup Tuesday, November 8, 2005 This year's Melbourne Cup was a most excellent race. Just the day before I went with friends to The Office Bar & Grill for the annual do Bob and Sam put on I read that some Australian bookies were giving as high as 11-to-1 odds against Makybe Diva and jockey Glenn Boss winning not only a record-setting 3rd time, but doing it consecutively. I should add people who actually know something about horseracing told me most bookies were calling much lower odds. Whatever the odds, Makybe Diva did it. I'm sure the bookies who gave high odds against the winner are still crying, a week on! (And I'm crying that I had no way to bet; just for the heck of it, I would have put a few dollars on what turned out to be the winning horse.) In a brilliant, exciting race, jockey and horse formed a precision machine. Right from the start various horses moved up, fell back, others surged forward, and so on. When they came thundering around the final bend heading towards the finish line, Makybe Diva was somewhere back a bit in the pack. But when the distance lessened, he surged forward and pushed relentlessly ahead. When he pulled into the lead, Boss kept looking over his shoulder, presumably nervously. But his mount didn't let him down. The Melbourne Cup is a particularly enjoyable race, even to folks like me who don't follow any sport very much. Of course, adding to the enjoyment for me the several years I've been going to watch are that I go with friends to an establishment I like that's owned by friends. An who can't get infected by the true fans' roaring enthusiasm? If Makybe Diva's owner doesn't retire the winner this year, wonder what the odds will be against a 4th win??? Hmm -- maybe I will start following things a bit more closely! * * * * * * * * * * Responsible for Damage to Coral Reef in the Philippines Tuesday, November 8 2005 About a week ago I saw a report that the flagship of Greenpeace, Rainbow Warrior, struck fragile coral reefs in the Philippines a day or so before the report, damaging nearly 100 square meters. An official with Greenpeace asserted the maritime chart used by the ship's crew was incorrect, further saying the accident would not have happened had the chart been accurate. The part of the story that interested me the most, however, was the bit about the rapid agreement by Greenpeace officials to pay about US$6,900 for the damage. The site is a World Heritage site, and I wonder what the money is for. Is it for the U.N. and the Philippines' government to try to rectify the damage, for punitive damages, or for some other purpose? The U.N. is notorious for receiving much then dispensing little. From what I've read and heard from friends and acquaintances who've live in or have visited the island nation (including from very many Philippines citizens), the government there isn't exactly a model of economic efficiency. Not that either of those bureaucracies are alone, however; think of the private relief agencies that are able to give perhaps only 10-20% of the donations they receive to actually help victims. The punitive fine is perfectly acceptable, given that Greenpeace officials have accepted a measure of responsibility for the accident. To give this a context, my interest was aroused in part because of the many reports of victims of the tsunami, various hurricanes typhoons, and the India-Pakistan earthquake who weeks and even many months on are awaiting the first hint, even, of assistance though a lot of money has been promised. * * * * * * * * * * Tuesday, November 8, 2005 Earlier I wrote about a buddy's and my mini-tour of the Nana area and mentioned that came about as a result of our need to straighten out air tickets for our trip to Phnom Penh, the increasingly bustling capital of Cambodia, or, properly named, Kampuchea. Before I get into talking about places, let me mention the driver we invariably use [if he's available] when we're there, Mr. Haeng (pronounced "hang," as in "I want to hang a picture on that wall). Mr. Haeng speaks quite good English, has his own car -- well, his brother's -- is a very nice person, knows the city well, and charges the most reasonable rate of US$25.00/day. By "day" I mean anything up to 6:00A.M.-Midnight or even more. (We always pay him that rate each, not collectively, but each; the man is great, has a family, and goes over the top to provide superior service -- all above and beyond being a wonderful human being.) Awhile back, I made my first and only, so far, trip to the Killing Field outside Phnom Penh, about which I wrote at the time. Mr. Haeng lost family during that time, if not at that particular place, yet honored me by telling me a little about the era. While's he not the only excellent driver in Phnom Penh, he's as good as the best. His telephone number is 855-12-843-241. Because he is a popular driver, it's best to call in advance to book him. He'll pick you up and deliver you back to the airport -- part of the service. By now I've been to the Khemer capital more times than I can remember. And every trip has been at least a little bit better than the last. It's hard to believe that in its recent history it was on essentially a war footing with its own citizens, many of whom perished in the Killing Fields. But my focus here is the pleasant; we discovered a couple new places. First up is Golden Vine Bar & Bistro. My buddy spotted it in a guide and suggested we go there for the simple reason it was midday and the place opened at 10:00 A.M. We went, and initially we couldn't see anybody through the open-front premises, but I caught motion as we were turning away to get back in our car to go on to the next place. We turned back to have "a drink." More than 3 wonderful hours later, we finally made our way out. The owners are an extraordinary Vietnamese lady, Lan, who has lived in the capital for 15 years, and her Australian boyfriend, Paul. Lan was there when we went back in, and she is the epitome of a most excellent bar owner: vivacious, friendly, fluent in Vietnamese (of course), Khemer [Cambodian], and English. Cute as a button, too. And she figured us out pretty quick, astute businesswoman she obviously is: she bought us a drink or two, and gave each of us a bar T-shirt, which bears a picture of their most popular dancer (to which subject I will return). When Paul managed to make his way downstairs, he proved to be every bit as affable as his Missus [if not as cute as a button! ;-) ] Returning to the bar's a-go-go dancing, it's far tamer than, say, here in Bangkok. For people who like to goggle unclad ladies, this isn't the place. Yes, there are related activities in Cambodia, but not onstage. Though the country is progressing by leaps and bounds, it is still coming to terms with decades of war, genocide, and a harshly communal society led by so-called "Brother Number 1," the late Pol Pot, during the horror years of the Khemer Rouge rule immortalized by the book and resulting film The Killing Fields. The 2 times we were there it was midday, i.e., before the a-go-go dancing started. According to Lan, the place is the first, at least in a number of years, to have dance poles, in Phnom Penh (and, thus, probably, the entire Kingdom). We meant to return the first night, but that plan went by the wayside when we discovered another great place (more later). Now, the Golden Vine Bar & Bistro isn't only a bar with a couple dance poles on the bar; it's also a proper restaurant. Lan told us she serves huge portions -- her business card identifies her as "Cook" and says "Australian Owned and Run," as does Paul's card. Early on, my buddy commented, "I know who the boss of this bar is!" But back to the food. On our 2nd visit, my friend ordered a full-blown meal, which he was unable to finish completely, despite having a very large appetite at any time. I asked for a sampling of the mashed potatoes and brown onion gravy. Lan gave me a portion -- but wouldn't let me pay for it. That's the only dish I tried, but it was superb. Lan did complain she had served my buddy all the mashed and gravy she had prepared earlier that morning, and apologized that what she served me was a last-minute let's-whip-something-out-quick order. Hard to imagine the more carefully prepared could be any better, but she took me back to the kitchen to smell the to-die-for aroma of the "proper" batch of brown onion gravy she put on at the same time as she whipped something out for me, and I do have to admit it smelled heavenly, delectable. My buddy said his order was also of top taste quality. The Golden Bar & Bistro is definitely on my rapidly-expanding must-visit list.
# 81, Street 108 Next up is another newly-discovered jewel of a bar, Rose. In addition to being a great bar with moderate prices and rooms for rent, the entire staff are almost too friendly too believe. (I'm beginning to think that about everyone everywhere in Phnom Penh.) Rose opens in the afternoon at 4:00 P.M., according to the business card, and open, well, "till late." On our way to dinner at my next mention, we didn't spend as much time as Rose as we had at Golden, but we thoroughly enjoyed it.
# SEo, St. 104 [The street addresses remain distinctly unromantic. Don't ask me to explain this address; I've never seen one like it.] Which brings us to a Russian restaurant about which I have written before, named, simply, Irina. Long-time readers may recall past articles I've written about the place, especially about the friendly Irina and her fiery, deadly homemade vodka. (Yes, it fit all 3 descriptions yet again this time around.) If you like authentic Russian food but aren't in Moscow or St. Petersburg, try here. I am not directly familiar with Russian cuisine, but friends with long familiarity assure me it is absolutely the real thing, a contention supported by the fact that Irina was the chef at the Russian Embassy in Phnom Penh for 11 years. Irina has moved to a new location: Street 352, #15, telephone 855-12-853-524 As always, the food and service were top-drawer. I especially recommend the borscht and stroganoff; the latter is considerably different from any I've ever eaten, and it surely is enviable. And Irina has opened another restaurant in Siem Reap, near the World Heritage site Angkor Wat, called Russian House Restaurant. Gives me another excuse to finally make my way to one of the great wonders of the world. I have no doubt Russian House Restaurant is every bit as good as Irina.
#0540. St. Wat Bo Now to move to the hotel to which my buddy introduced me after having discovered it on his last solo trip down, the Phnom Penh Hotel. While this hotel lacks the river views of some of the other hotels, I didn't give a darn. My room wasn't the largest in which I've stayed, but it was almost as beautifully appointed as any I've stayed -- anywhere. The bath is an engineering marvel; be sure to read the instruction card FIRST so you don't end up steaming yourself to a nice lobster red! There is a control panel; a removable shower head and water tube; a built-into-the-ceiling shower head; a bath nozzle and a small tub, along with 6 Jacuzzi jets in the tub, 2 along each side and 1 at each end of the tub; and 6 jets on the interior wall of the self-contained unit that can be used either for bathing or for a steam bath. There also is an exhaust fan so the wall-mounted mirror doesn't steam up (and temperature controls for all, of course). And I need not to forget the in-the-unit light controls. On top of all these, there are several radio stations available for in-shower listening via the control panel. I was dumbfounded, having never seen such. Back to the tub. It is small, even by petite Asian standards. I'm not all that big -- well, not all that tall, anyway -- but had to draw my knees up to sit and take advantage of the Jacuzzi jets, something I was damned and determined to do. Despite being cramped, I enjoyed my jet-assisted bath. One small problem I encountered was adjusting the water temperature: no matter how slightly I turned the lever in either direction, the water for the longest time was either uncomfortably warm -- not burning, but warm -- or uncomfortably cool -- not freezing, but cool. I finally got it right, but was hesitant to try the steam bath function, not wanting to be any redder than I already am! Being a model of heroism, I chickened out on a steam bath. From the above, one might think I spent my entire time enjoying the hong nam -- the restroom -- but that's not true. Our particular rooms overlooked a very nicely done interior courtyard in a hotel built in quadrangle form, a courtyard with a lovely swimming pool, chairs for sunbathing, and a pavilion. I spent some time gazing at that. (No, there was only a hairy-egged guy there each time I looked, no voluptuous, dusky beauties. DARN!) Somewhat surprisingly, the hotel has true broadband Internet service available. It's a bit pricey at US$5.00/hour, but it is lightening quick. An assistant brings the cable, hooks everything up, and ensures everything is working before departing. We stayed on the 3rd floor, called the Club Executive Floor (and which is on the 4th floor for my fellow Yanks who have trouble figuring out how most of the rest of the world measures things, though the hotel has helpfully assisted we Colonials by labeling the button in the elevator "4") where there is a separate check-in desk and a dining room where you can enjoy free non-alcoholic beverages all day 6:30 A.M.-9:00 P.M. and a free snack bar, ostensibly 6:00P.M.-8:00 P.M., though we went at 5:00 P.M. and were served. Do I really need to say the service was impeccable from start to finish? There also is a very nice nightclub in the hotel with a Filipino band that had already started playing when we arrived around 9:00 A.M. The venue sports nice, low tables; subdued, but not-impossible-to-see-in lighting; low-key service; and comfortable surroundings. The Phnom Penh Hotel isn't especially cheap by the standards outside places such as Singapore, Hongkong, Tokyo, Beijing, Seoul, etc. But even at rack rates, when you compare the cost to hotels in those cities and others, they are competitive. My friend, who travels to the city often on business, was able to negotiate a good rate, but I can't tell you to count on that, especially first time out. I paid more than I normally do for a place to crash, but don't regret it at all. I probably won't stay there every time I visit, but sometimes I will.
No. 53, Preah Monivong Blvd.
Sangkat Srah Chok Now comes a place about which I've written before, Coyote Ugly Bar. This is very much akin to a neighborhood bar in the West with Asian trappings. The owner is a great guy from Florida, Robert. He doesn't have a web site yet, and I don't have his business card at hand, but if you tell Mr. Haeng, the driver I mentioned at the beginning of this article, he will know. Robert makes some of the best cheese cake and apple pie I've had. He's friendly as the dickens, his workers all are nice, and the bar is plain comfortable -- what you expect from a neighborhood bar. Finally, a word about ATM's -- international ones are finally available (at ANZ Bank) and between passport control and customs for people arriving. Some of the hotels and restaurants accept credit and debit cards, though not all. * * * * * * * * * * A Thought for the Late Brother of Charlie Brown Tuesday, November 8, 2005 I never had the pleasure or honor of meeting Dale. Yet circumstances led us to communicate via e-mail every once in a while, if not frequently. In Dale's e-mails to me, he came across as a great guy. I was saddened when Charlie called me to tell me Dale had suffered a stroke at age 76 in America and passed away shortly thereafter. Dale's passing presents a bit of a dilemma in terms of definition. That is, to the best of my knowledge, he never came to Washington Square, so he wasn't a Squaronian in that sense. Yet both Charlie and their younger brother lived here, so in *that* sense he was, as I have written 56 times since January 1, 2002, a person "connected to the Square past or present." So, in some sense, we have lost a 57th Squaronian. Those of you who know Charlie and wish to express condolences, you know how to reach or otherwise get word to him. Anyone who doesn't know but remembers, for example, the columns Charlie used to write for this web site, and who wishes to pass along a bereavement message to him, please feel free to pass it along to me and I promise to get it to him for him to do as he sees fit. * * * * * * * * * * Veterans and Remembrance Day Friday Wednesday, November 9, 2005 I wrote about U.S. Veterans Day in my last column, but didn't think to mention in some other of the Allies in World War I commemorate the same event on November 11th, though in the United Kingdom specifically the main day of remembrance is Remembrance Sunday, the Sunday nearest November 11th of that year. I've refreshed my memory a bit about the commemoration. World War I hostilities ended at 11:00 A.M. on November 11th, 1918, when the armistice went into effect. One of the chief places the day commemorates is Flanders, where some of the bloodiest battles of the war took place. Red poppies blossomed there, and many wear poppies, a fitting symbol for the tremendous bloodshed. Others wear white poppies, honoring the dead but also stressing their desire to find peaceful alternatives to war. While the day is specifically to remember the fallen, there's a strong transfer effect to anyone who served in that conflict. Of course, 87 years on, there are few, if any, living veterans of that war. (I simply don't know.) * * * * * * * * * * Office Bar & Grill Sports Broadcast Schedule Friday, November 11 2005
Here's the sports television
broadcast schedule for this ever-popular Sukhumvit Soi 33 bar from tomorrow
through next Wednesday:
Sat 12
11.30
Cricket
Pakistan v England 1st Test Day 1
LIVE
11.30
Cricket
India
v Sri Lanka 7th ODI
LIVE
21.30
Rugby
England v Australia
LIVE
21.30
Rugby
Ireland v New Zealand
LIVE
23.00
Rugby
France
v Canada
LIVE
23.30
Soccer
England v Argentina
LIVE
00.30
Rugby
Scotland v Argentina
LIVE
Sun 13
11.30
Rugby
League
Tri
Nations Great Briton v NZ
REPLAY
11.30
Cricket
Pakistan v England 1st Test Day 2
LIVE
18.30
Cars
GP
Masters South Africa
LIVE
Mon 14
15.30
Cricket
Pakistan v England 1st Test Day 3
LIVE
Tues
15
15.30
Cricket
Pakistan v England 1st Test Day 4
LIVE
Wed 16
15.30
Cricket
Pakistan v England 1st Test Day 5
LIVE (I know Americans' attention span is short, but a 5-day game? -- good grief!!!) * * * * * * * * * * Friday, November 11, 2005 A week from tomorrow, Saturday, November 19, 2005 [note: I corrected the date from the 18th to the 19th fewer than 24 hours before the event, when I realized my mistake], the Ploenchit Fair will take place again 10:00 A.M.-8:00 P.M. This is a decades-old charity event sponsored by the British that has made significant contributions to the Kingdom. The venue is again the BEC Tero Hall at the Suan Lum Night Bazaar that fronts Wireless Road and Rama IV Road. Though I myself have never had occasion to attend this popular do, people I know who have been sing high praises to the heavens about it, both for it purpose and its enjoyment. Ploenchit Fair is very much a family-oriented event, with scads of stuff for the kiddies to do. Good on the British Community in Thailand Foundation For The Needy for faithfully sponsoring this event. The rest of us need to tip our hats to the fine folks there who work tirelessly to make this annual event such a huge success. Further compliments are due the British Embassy staff here who also do an unseen but huge amount to help assure the event's success. Visit the Ploenchit Fair website for further information (including a map). * * * * * * * * * * American Thanksgiving at Texas Lone Staar Friday, November 11, 2005 Generous George is putting on his 4-decades-old traditional turkey dinner on American Thanksgiving Day, Thursday, November 24, 2005. The start time for the feast is 3:00 P.M. The venue may not be a 5-star hotel, but the meal is free and the atmosphere celebratory and festive. When I last lived in China I made it a special point to return here for the annual event. George lords over the festivities, which are always well-attended by the scads of friends he's acquired over his 42 years in Thailand. The nose-in-the-air crowd don't come, but that suits me *just* fine; they're welcome to their live pate Thanksgiving at some 5-star hotel with other expats who live in "Bubble America" awaiting their rotation back home! ;-) [I say that with no heat; each to his own.] In any case, if you want a down-to-earth, honest-to-goodness American Thanksgiving meal, then drop on around. And see the next story for a further reason to attend. * * * * * * * * * * Christopher G. Moore Book-Signing The increasingly famous author Christopher G. Moore will be on hand at the Texas Lone Staar on Thanksgiving day 2:30-4:30P.M. to sign copies of his latest novel, Gambling on Magic. I've just started reading Chris' latest work, so can't really comment other than to say the 40 or so pages I've read were absolutely captivating. But that's no surprise; I've thoroughly enjoyed everything I've read by him, which is most of his literary output. I've said this before, and I'll say it again: as a person trained to master's level in literature, I can assure you that Chris is a gem of a writer, something the world is increasingly noting. To wit, he won a major German literary award last year for one of his novels. Chris is a writer who is a splendid sort of Mickey Spillane gone literary, and himself incorporates bits of his own fictional answer to Mike Hammer, Vincent Calvino. I have no doubt that Chris will achieve well-deserved public recognition. And yes, I mean major recognition. Chris is a friend, so I can tell you authoritatively he's a really nice, approachable guy. This is an opportunity for you to meet Southeast Asia's 21st-century Graham Greene -- an opportunity you shouldn't miss. Besides, there'll be free food available!!! ;-) * * * * * * * * * * Enough for one go . . . Until next time -- Mekhong Kurt
E-mail Change Notification Sign-up Sign-up here for e-mail notification when I add or change something on the site. Just go to the sign-up page. * * * * * * * * * * Where Is *Your* Name??? So you've been a slacker and still haven't signed up for the free BangkokAtoZ.com Updates Mailing List??? ;-) Well, get with the program and sign up right now to be notified via e-mail whenever we add something to the site -- that way, you don't even have to visit the Updates Page to see if there's anything new -- we'll let you know by e-mail. If you want to sign up, just go to the sign-up page. I'm pleased to say that more and more of you are signing up, and I urge all of you not to hesitate! * * * * * * * * * * Where is *Your* "Traveler's Tale"???
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