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"The Rounds"

Friday, April 16, 2004

  Mekhong Kurt

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Interesting E-mails

Last Sunday saw the arrival of 3 e-mails from 3 different site visitors, none known to me personally; each was interesting and thought-provoking.

The first 2 were very complimentary of this site, and the writers thanked me for offering information and observations about the local scene.  That let me know that I had managed at least a more right than wrong mix for 2 more readers.  With varied content that goes all over the map, at times, I'm not always sure about the mix until I get feedback (if any); of necessity, I take no feedback to mean readers are in the main generally satisfied.

The 3rd e-mail was in its own way the most thought-provoking of all.  In the instances of the complimentary e-mails, it was easy to sit down and craft appreciative replies -- naturally.  But the 3rd writer took me to task on some issues, so I reflected on his observations at length, particularly given that the e-mail was polite in tone and obviously written by an intelligent individual, and even more particularly because the writer had taken the time to offer observations.

One matter addressed is the commentary I provide giving my take on different situations.  Usually, though not always, I restrict such comments to Thailand-related issues, especially those that impact on the lives of we foreigners who live here and/or the holidays or business visits by other foreigners who come here for temporary stays. There are exceptions.  For example, in the wake of 9/11, I wrote a couple of stand-alone editorials in which I took a very strong stand against the attackers.  Last week I wrote about the bad week in Iraq for coalition forces, especially American ones; arguably, I should have decided to mention the innocent Iraqis wounded and killed during that same week, though at the time I was writing I didn't want to dwell too much on the point.

My correspondent asked that I restrict myself to covering the night entertainment scene, saying that 99.9% of the site's visitors likely aren't the slightest interested in my observations, and further stating flat-out I have no qualifications to make any.

And the writer is entirely correct in the context of formal training.  I have, however, written about mainland Chinese politics (to give just 1 example) based of having lived in the mainland and in Macau while it was still a colony of Portugal for a total of nearly 8 years.  As I still do today, I follow developments in that country with great interest, and have done so for just over 20 years, and have read voraciously about that wondrous land.  Ditto, if to a bit lesser degree and for a shorter time -- only about 11 years -- Thailand in particular.  And as is the case with my interest in China, I have friends who are formally trained or experienced or both to indisputable expert level here, friends who are kind enough to give me information and their own interpretations of it, explaining when necessary.  It also bears mentioning that I also lack any formal training to make observations about the nightlife here -- or anywhere, for that matter; my experience as an elbow-bender in various venues is my sole qualification.  And if experience qualifies one to make comments, then I'm as qualified to comment on affairs other than the nightlife as I am to comment on nightlife topics, by definition.

But there is another point more to the point.  This site was never intended to be just another site about the nightlife in Bangkok.  The very name of the site, with the words broken apart, clearly indicates that: "Bangkok A to Z."  On the homepage for this column I wrote, "This column is partly reporting on businesses in Bangkok, especially in the heart of Bangkok's "Foreigner Ghetto" along Sukhumvit Road, and partly commentary -- often of a caustic nature -- on the local scene."  I think that makes it clear that commentary has always been an intentional part of this site, and it will remain so.

The writer had another point that was disturbing, due to the implications of it, as it was phrased.  That is, so long as I stick only to covering nightlife, visitors can "tolerate" what the writer dubbed the "cronyism" of having photo galleries of my "young girlfriends."

This is a point I want to address in a forthright, direct manner.

There is no cronyism, period.  End of story.  None of the ladies who kindly allow me to maintain galleries of their photos has ever expressed any interest in using the attendant publicity -- which is substantial, since in aggregate the galleries account for about 1/3 of the site's traffic -- to further her goals in anyway whatsoever.  On the contrary, in every case I had to strive to assure the lady whose permission I was seeking to use her photographs on this site that I would fiercely guard her privacy and say nothing that in any way reveals anything personal about her, other than her pictures and her nickname.  I want and offer nothing other than their photos; they want and ask nothing -- nothing at all.

Further, the identification of the BangkokAtoZ.com models as my "young girlfriends" is not correct.  None of the ladies is now, ever has been, or likely ever will be my "girlfriend."  All are my friends who happen to be attractive young ladies.  Again -- period.  End of story.

For any of you who may have been in doubt about the aims of this site or about my personal agenda, that's it in its simple entirety.  There's nothing more or less to it.  This is a non-commercial site to which I devote many hours each week -- because I want to do so, not for any money.  Heck, I've never made a single baht from BangkokAtoZ.com, nice as it would be to do so.  I realize some visitors may not be the least bit interested in my take on things, and of course that's fair enough -- they can just move on past it and ignore it.  And though I've tried never to imply that any of the models showcased here are in any way romantically connected with me, this e-mail made it clear that at least some people assume so.  But I hope I have put laid that erroneous assumption to rest.

Don't misunderstand me: when I receive critical comments, especially when they are intelligent and politely said or written, I pay close attention.  After all, the observers are being kind enough to give me their take on the site and what they believe to be faults, which instructs me either to eliminate those faults or to explain that I don't view them as faults.  So in one sense the negative comments are as much or more informative for me as the positive ones are.

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Crystal Bar, Washington Square: Open Again

I haven't been by to find out exactly what's going on, but Crystal Bar, which I reported as shuttered in a recent column, is open again.  Once I find out what's going on there, I'll make a report here.

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Songkhran: Unable to Flee the Scene

I was unable to escape Thailand for this week's Songkhran holiday after all, but it turned out to be okay.  Except for a couple of absolutely essential exits from Washington Square, I stayed safe and dry inside the Square for the duration.  (I maintain a room above one of the Square's bars, where I keep a throw-down mattress and pillow, so I was able to sleep there.)

On the first of the 3 days of official celebration of the Thai New Year I did venture across Sukhumvit Soi 22 to Queen's Park Plaza, but venturing no further than the first bar at the Soi 22 end of the first walkway (first coming from the Square, that is), an open-air beer bar named Popeye's 2.  There were a few people spraying and dousing each other at the entrance to the walkway, but they spared me, which I deeply appreciated.  Such courtesy is in keeping with the tradition of the holiday (which waylaying innocents passersby most definitely is not).

All in all it was a pleasant holiday, rather to my surprise.  Several times people started to douse me, but when I (politely) asked them not to do so, they refrained.  On the last evening of the holiday the ladies from Garden Spa Massage were, um, "rather exuberant" in the water celebrations, as were the ladies from Happy Pub on the other side of the Square -- between them cutting off my 2 routes to my room.  I was hesitant to venture out the front gate of the Square to walk down Sukhumvit Road to Sukhumvit Soi 22, then to go down Soi 22 to the back entrance to the Square, a route which would allow me to avoid both the massage parlor and Happy Pub -- but which would expose me to almost certain drenching along that route.  So, I hid out in the Wild Country Bar with the owner, her manageress, and another customer until about 3:30 A.M., by which time all the festivities had ended.

The highlight of the holiday for me personally was of no general public significance, but I'll mention it anyway.  My friend Bear, about whose 60th birthday I wrote last week, hosted a small get-together.  Counting Bear, there were 7 of us present, and we spent the afternoon of New Year's Day (the 14th) just eating and chatting.  Two of us departed together about 6:30 P.M. and went to The Office Bar & Grill to drop by and wish Bob and Sam, the owners, a Happy Songkhran.  I made my way to Monet Bar and Van Gogh Bar after that, then made my way with no trouble back to Washington Square.

Anyone who loves celebrating New Year's Day certainly ought to enjoy being in Thailand December 31st-April 15th -- no fewer than 3 New Year's Days fall in that 3½-month period: Western New Year's Day, Chinese (Lunar) New Year's Day, and Thai New Year's Day, Songkhran!  The 8½ months following Songkhran until the next Western New Year is needed just to recover from the closely-spaced holidays!

Time to start gearing up for December 31, 2004 . . .

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More about Marriage Visas

* * * * * * * * * *

Tourism Authority of Thailand Reports Increase
in Tourist Arrivals at Bangkok's Don Muang Airport

After a slight drop during the first quarter of this year, tourist arrivals have reportedly increased -- by 94% compared to April of last year, but by a more reasonable 9% compared to April, 2002, when there was no SARS crisis, as there was last year.

I certainly hope this report is true, as it suggests hope for the tourism sector, a sector of great importance to the overall Thai economy.  As I and many others have said many times and continue to say, despite the undeniable disadvantages of visiting Bangkok and other points in Thailand, the entire Kingdom has much to offer, from ancient cultures to the mountains of the north with their hill tribe peoples, the beaches of places such as Pattaya and Phuket, jungles and wildlife, world-class shopping, exciting nightlife, and much, much more -- all at affordable prices, compared to many other countries.  Although prices have increased significantly in the past decade, even 5-star hotels remain relatively cheap when rates for certain other places are taken into account.

If you're thinking of making your first foray here -- I hope you do, so you can decide for yourself.  While the weather is best in December and January, even now, the height of the hot season, is attractive to many.  I myself always welcome the cooling rains of the monsoon season, as long as it doesn't flood, anyway.

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Carrying Your Passport: Make Up Your Own Mind

Now that Songkhran has passed, along with the specific requirement to follow the letter of the law requiring foreigners to carry their passports at all times, each of us who find ourselves in the Kingdom, whether living or visiting, have to weigh the risks involved in carrying our passports versus the risks in not carrying them.

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Reminder" Birthday Party for "Australia" Jim Monday the 26th

Just a reminder that Monday-after-next is "Australia" Jim's birthday, and his friends are invited to his birthday bash this coming Monday at Madam Claude Bar just off Sukhumvit Soi 33; festivities commence at 7:00 P.M.

There will be free food; and Jim assures me the bell will ring.

Madam Claude is tucked away down a short drive almost directly opposite Degas Bar.  It's a pleasant place, with a ground floor and an upper loft with seating.  All the hostesses are very pleasant, and most speak surprisingly good English.  It's one of my favorite haunts, and I recommend you try it anytime.  The Happy Hour there runs to 10:00 P.M., the same as at The Office Bar & Grill across the soi, unlike all the other bars along and just off Sukhumvit Soi 33, whose Happy Hours all end at 9:00 P.M.

* * * * * * * * * *
Bars Closing at Midnight Along Sukhumvit Soi 22

For reasons unknown to me, Thonglor police have been requiring bars along Sukhumvit Soi 22 and in Queen's Park Plaza to close at midnight, not at 1:00 A.M., as has been the case since April 1, 2004 at other bars across the city.  It is odd to me that Denny's Corner, for example, can remain open until 1:00 A.M. while it's neighbor, the Arisa Bar, has to close at midnight, odd especially considering that Denny's Corner, an open-air beer bar at the Soi 22 entrance to Washington Square, is open on 2 sides, 1 of which is open directly to Soi 22.

I've heard rumors -- but unconfirmed ones -- that the police are telling bar owners to be patient and that maybe things will ease up as time goes by.  But for now, it's midnight sharp for these bars, and 1:00 A.M. for others, though someone told me the bars in RCA [Royal City Avenue] are being allowed to remain open until 2:00 A.M. (another story I can't confirm, as I haven't checked it out).

The situation remains confusing to all.  Even a police officer I spoke with, one of our neighborhood patrolmen, voiced frustration, saying that to the best of his knowledge, no one at Thonglor Police Station (where he's assigned) knows what's going on, not even the station commander.  His frustration stems not only from the lack of information, but also from his being in the front line of having to go around telling bar owners here to close at 1:00 A.M. the other bar owners they have to close their establishments at midnight, which often results in an owner bitterly demanding to know why his bar has to close at midnight but his neighbor's does not -- and the policeman is left mute, unable to give any reason.  I don't blame him or any officer in such a position for being frustrated.

So far, it appears the dropping of any plans to make bars not open until 6:00 P.M. remain on the shelf -- where, in my opinion, they ought to remain forever.  I just can't understand the logic of telling competent adults that they have to wait until such a relatively late hour to hoist a brew (or glass of wine, or whatever their preferred drink is).  I suspect there isn't any logic to it -- an opinion widely shared, even amongst my tee-totaling friends.  (And yes, believe it or not, I do have friends who for whatever reason don't consume alcohol!!!)

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Foreign Ministry Reported Angry Over Leak of U.N. Special Representative's Report Regarding Human Rights in Thailand

Hina Jilani, U.N. special representative for human rights, recently visited Thailand at the invitation of the Thai government, and has prepared a report.  That report was reportedly leaked prior to its presentation to the United Nations itself, and is said to warn that the human rights situation in Thailand is worsening.

I've not been able to locate the leaked report, but if it is true, then everyone here likely will want to follow events.  In my own daily life, I have seen nothing to cause alarm for Thais, resident foreigners, of foreign visitors.  Nor have I heard anything from friends causing me to feel the situation is worsening.  Therefore, I want to openly state I am not raising the alarm here, only passing along this information so you can digest it, if you wish.

In my nearly 10 years here, I have been fortunate, and not ever felt my rights have been violated.  Sure, a time or two I've been stopped by police when I was riding my motorbike and had to pay an on-the-spot fine, but I didn't feel my human rights were being violated.

But long-term residents here all have their stories about having to be careful about their personal behavior during times of dictatorship or widespread social unrest, such as the turmoil in the early 1990's under a dictatorship that led to the restoration of parliamentary democracy in the Kingdom.

Of course, each foreigner will have to decide independently how to react if it turns out there is any truth in the report, i.e., whether to ride it out, leave temporarily, for leave for good.  It would take a pretty extreme scenario for me personally to opt for the last decision, but since I see no indications of such extremity coming to pass at this time, I'm not worried.  Attentive -- yes; worried -- no.

Even during the harshest days of the anti-drug campaign in 2003, no foreigners (as far as I know) were wounded or killed, so for us that campaign did not affect us personally, however we may have felt about the way it was conducted (and believe me, opinions went right across the spectrum among my foreign friends, from complete condemnation at one extreme to loud applause at the other extreme).

Just be aware -- as, indeed, we should be, in my view, wherever we are, including in our respective homelands.

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New Bars on Sukhumvit Soi 33

A couple of new bars have opened their doors on Sukhumvit Soi 33, further increasing the number of places there.  I paid quick visits to them 2 weeks ago, but was in neither long enough to write a balanced review.  Neither had business cards yet, though I was able to learn that they, as is true of the other bars in the soi, open at 4:00 P.M. and close at 1:00 A.M., and are open 7 days a week.

If you haven't been to the "Dead Artists Soi" for awhile, it's worth a stroll to drop in to any old favorites you may have and to explore the new venues that have sprung up in recent months.

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Asoke Corner and Asoke Plaza
Reported to Be Completely Gone

I haven't had time to go verify this myself, but a friend told me this week that he went to Asoke Plaza [on the corner of Soi Asoke and Sukhumvit Road] to go to an open beer bar he favored but found the entire area leveled, including Asoke Corner, which fronted on to Sukhumvit Soi 23 and ran back to diagonally behind Asoke Plaza.

But that has always been in the offing.  Every report I heard from bar owners over the years was that the land owners told them yes, they would rent out the land, and would honor the contracts come what may, or give several months' notice, refunds as appropriate, and some compensation for any inconvenience an early removal might cause; those owners felt such an arrangement was fair enough, so they had no complaints.

I understand a hotel is going to be built on the site.

* * * * * * * * * *

Price Rises in Nana Plaza Displeases Some

I haven't been to Nana Plaza since last September (and that was in the afternoon; I haven't been at night in about 1½ years), but friends who used to be diehard aficionados of the venue are increasingly deserting the area due, they say, to price increases, particularly for lady drinks, that they find unacceptable.  I have to agree that to pay 120 baht or more for a tiny glass of cola is over the top, especially given the swiftness with which the ladies generally leave, swallowing their drink in a single gulp then speeding off to the next customer the millisecond they finish a drink you bought, if they believe you aren't going to buy them another one instantly.  (That's one reason I stopped going there a long time ago; ditto Patpong.)

But to be fair to the bar owners in and around Nana Plaza, price increases have hit other entertainment venues as well.  Prices border on what I consider the ridiculous in Soi Cowboy, for example.  And prices have always been high along Sukhumvit Soi 33, especially after Happy Hour, which generally ends at 9:00 P.M.  I used to let the ladies at Monet Club   drink Jack Daniels at in Soi 33 -- until the price went from 150 baht to 300  baht!  I spoke with the owner about the overnight doubling of the price (he's a friend), but he was steadfast and declined to reconsider -- and that was several years ago.  Needless to say, the ladies don't ask me for Jack Daniels anymore, at least those who know me (which is practically all of them).

Anyway, if you haven't been to the Plaza for awhile, prepare to have a fatter wallet than you did before.

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Washington Square Bars

It's been awhile since I've written much about bars in Washington Square (other than Crystal Bar), so I thought I'd run a bit of an update, though much remains unchanged.

Coming in from Sukhumvit Road, the first place is The Dubliner, an Irish restaurant-pub that's very popular, though the great majority of customers there never venture further into the Square (just as few Squaronians go there).  Open 10:00 A.M.-1:A.M. every day, it has great food, and some beers not widely available.  It is on the pricey side for Washington Square, but is in line with the other comparable venue in the Square, i.e., Bourbon Street Restaurant.

Going into the Square and turning left, you'll see the Silver Dollar Bar (which has its own website you can see by clicking here).  This is a great little bar, with rooms for rent upstairs, and a reasonably extensive menu.  And the prices are quite reasonable; I pay 90 baht for a Jack-water, for example.  The specialty food is Tex-Mex, at which they do a good job (though the have other offerings as well, including a Thai-French T-bone steak that is excellent and well worth the 395 baht charged -- it includes a nice baked potato and tossed salad).  The staff are very friendly, as is owner Ott, a Thai lady who's one of best friends -- as, indeed, is her husband, an American named Ned.  They have 2 televisions, one a large-screen (44"), with the capability of having 1 show on 1 screen and a different one on another, if the second is on a VCD or DVD, though of course one show or the other has to be muted.  Still, this is especially handy when, for example, some customers want to watch a sport event but don't care about not hearing the commentary and other customers want to watch a VCD or DVD.  They also have a CD player, and the normal order of the day is for the television to be on during the day into mid- or late afternoon (usually with a movie, cable news, or a sporting event on), then for the music to go on; just about every genre is represented in their offerings.  Do be advised ordering food can be a bit of a problem, especially the Tex-Mex; orders are mixed up with regularity; I've ordered, for example, a burrito, only to get a BLT!  Considering that the cook lived in Los Angeles 10 years and speaks English quite well, this is puzzling -- further considering that Ott has the menu translated into Thai in the kitchen, so even a non-English speaker should be able to get it right.  (The food items are all numbered.)  But the food is good, there's no doubt about that.  And they offer free food every Sunday at 2:30 P.M.  The Silver Dollar is one of my favorites*well* worth a visit; you've got to love a place in the 21st century that has a sign over its entrance reading: "No Firearms Allowed."

When you come out of the Silver Dollar and turn left, you'll see what is reportedly an excellent Japanese restaurant, then the well-known Texas Lone Staar Saloon, a double-shophouse-wide restuarant-bar, which in its first incarnation was The Texxan on Patpong beginning in the 1960's.  This is basically a daytime place; it's rarely busy at nights.  The owner, George Pipas, has been in Thailand 4 decades and knows just about everybody.  It's not always for the faint-hearted, as it can get downright wild and raunchy, but even when it doesn't, George himself is quite an attraction.  Rough and vulgar, he has a heart of gold, despite his bellowings.  He holds court from about 6:00 A.M. until 1:30 or 2:00 P.M..  The food is excellent, and reasonably priced, as are the drinks.  The staff are all friendly, and the 3 main cooks, all of whom work days, are living proof of the quality of the food -- they all 3 are . . . well, let's keep it nice and say "generously plump" (to say the *very* least!).  Even at night, if you need a quiet port to sit and reflect, you could do far worse than to go there; the night cashier, Khun Ae, is fairly plain, in many people's opinions, but she is indisputably one of the nicest, friendliest people I know -- I just adore her.  The music tends towards country-'n-western (naturally), but they do have other stuff, most notably an excellent Frank Siniatra best hits collection and a series of 1960's CD's.  There's also a television, but that's not the main draw of the place.  The staff, many of them with George for many years, are all very nice and strive to get things right.

Moving on down the line, the next place is the Wild Country -- an appropriately named venue if there ever was one.  This place really does become "wild country" on occasion, and it is not a place for the faint of heart.  Open noon to 1:00 A.M., it is a small place owned and run by the lovely Khun Riam.  The employees are all very nice, as are the great majority of customers, a fair number of whom go to no other Square bars, visiting only Wild Country.  There's a television, but it isn't watched much unless there is something on of general interest, and then primarily just in the afternoons.  There also is a CD/tape player, and the bar offers a wide range of music.  I really enjoy this bar, and it is one of my regular stops.

Finally, coming out of the Wild Country, turning left then 90 degrees right and going almost all the way to the back exit onto Sukhumvit Soi 22, you'll see New Square One Pub.  This bar is owned by a Thai lady, Khun Ray, and her husband, the irrepressible born-Welsh but Scottish for all intents and purposes, Taffy.

New Square One Pub can get every bit as wild as the Wild Country, but it is very popular.  Like most bars, it has its core group of customers, some of whom never dream of going to another Square bar.  Just as George at The Texas Lone Staar Saloon is himself one of the chief draws, Taffy is a leading attraction at Square One (as it's called for short).  He often holds court in the afternoon, surrounded, at times, with a score or more various friends.  It's an eclectic group of regulars, ranging from oilfield workers to U.S. military troops (when they're not restricted from visiting watering holes) to retirees to regular holiday-makers from abroad.  Even a few other bar owners frequent the place (as Taffy does a few other bars himself).  The bar has 2 televisions, including a massive 55" one, plus a CD player.  The staff are all nice, and they rank among my favorites (though that's a hard call -- I like a lot of the employees in my various regular stops).  This is another bar not for the faint-hearted; it may not get as wild as Wild Country, but it can certainly get rowdy enough for most people!

There are many other nice bars in the area, but these are a few some of you may well find to your liking.

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E-mail Change Notification Sign-up

Sign-up here for e-mail notification when I add or change something on the site.  Just go to the sign-up page.

* * * * * * * * * *
Where Is *Your* Name???

So you've been a slacker and still haven't signed up for the free BangkokAtoZ.com Updates Mailing List???  ;-)  Well, get with the program and sign up right now to be notified via e-mail whenever we add something to the site -- that way, you don't even have to visit the Updates Page to see if there's anything new -- we'll let you know by e-mail.  If you want to sign up, just go to the sign-up page.  I'm pleased to say that more and more of you are signing up, and I urge all of you not to hesitate!

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Where is *Your* "Traveler's Tale"???

Got a "Traveler's Tale"? -- send me a line!  Just send me a *query* note at MekhongKurt@BangkokAtoZ.com.

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Linking to BangkokAtoZ.com

If anyone reading this has a website and would like to place a link there for BangkokAtoZ.com, you can  copy-and-paste the banner and text link below into your site; they are live links to this site's homepage:

BangkokAtoZ.com

I'll appreciate an e-mail telling me the URL of where you placed it.  If you want me to put a link on BangkokAtoZ.com for your site, do tell me where you have placed our link, and I'll give you a link in a comparable position, of the same nature (i.e., banner-for-banner, text-for-text).

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Enough for one go . . .

Until next time --

Mekhong Kurt

Table of Contents

CHRISTOPHER G. MOORE

DEAN BARRETT

EDITORIALS

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MEKHONG KURT'S "THE ROUNDS"

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SUKHUMVIT ONLINE

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