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"The Rounds" Monday, April
28, 2003
Mekhong Kurt * * * * * * * * * * In This Edition . . . 1.
Ploenchit Fair 2002 * * * * * * * * * * Ploenchit Fair 2002 The decades-old Ploenchit Fair is coming up next Saturday, November 23rd, at its new-since-last-year location at the Dusit Palace. One of the highlights of the calendar each year in Bangkok, the fair is a charitable event run by the fine folks from The British Community in Thailand Foundation. At the same time, it has become very much a family day of fun-n'-games, with entertainment and activities for all ages, in the tradition of British fairs for centuries. I don't know anyone who has ever attended the Ploenchit Fair and walked away dissatisfied -- The British Community in Thailand Foundation together with their sponsors do a truly outstanding job, in the process raising considerable funds for charity. You can read further details at The British Community in Thailand Foundation's website here, as well as get detailed directions. This one is definitely worth setting aside some time for -- you'll have fun, and be helping a most worthy cause, all at the same time. The fair will run from 10:00 A.M. until 10:00 P.M. There They Go Again. . . . I'm actually starting this week's column early in the dark hours of Sunday morning, as I heard 2 reports Saturday evening that astounded me so much I wanted to put the electronic quill to the Internet notepad whilst they are fresh in my memory. First was from a friend who went to an a-go-go Friday night. He said while he was there, apparently the dancing girls -- all clad in bikini tops and g-strings -- received a signal and fled the stage. The owner was there, and upon investigation found out there were some plainclothes policemen causing the ruckus. Only when a gentleman with good connections with the police arrived and intervened did the officers back off -- though as I understand it, the dancing did not resume, and customers had already moved on in droves. To what end? On what grounds? For what reasons? Now, one may well argue that a-go-go is morally evil, or whatever; there is room for reasonable debate between people of good will on this point, though I personally have a hard time believing the upholding of moral values had even a little to do with this incident. But the next report utterly defies all logic. Another bar owner -- note "bar owner," NOT "a-go-go owner" -- has a keyboardist in his bar 6 nights a week, 3 of those nights the performer accompanied by a singer. And the bar owner has the appropriate license to have live music. HOWever -- early last week the police came in and said until his license to stay open until 2:00 A.M. instead of 1:00 A.M. comes through, he and his partner are in violation of "the law." Or, more precisely speaking, their Thai wives are -- whom are the people the police proposed to arrest for there terrible, unthinkable sin -- having a guy on a synthesizer and a lady singing, both fully dressed, neither involved in immoral or otherwise nefarious activities, but nonetheless apparently meriting the devoted attention of Bangkok's Finest, who clearly have nothing better to do, such as unsnarl traffic, apprehend drug dealers, etc. etc. etc. What are the police thinking? *Are* they thinking? * * * * * * * * * * Relative Security Had occasion to do a turn-around flight to Vientiane Saturday morning, and noticed something a little surprising: at the Wattay Airport in Vientiane, when one checks in for a flight with check-in baggage, that baggage is X-rayed, as it is in Bangkok's Don Muang Airport, but then has a bright yellow security band placed around it -- but Bangkok's airport has discontinued the security bands. I wonder why? * * * * * * * * * * A State of Denial? -- Part 2 Last time I mentioned that Thai authorities continue to insist Thailand is utterly, completely, one hundred per cent safe. Now not only are *some* of those authorities entirely dismissing foreign media and intelligence sources' claims regarding potential threats to the Kingdom, they are investigating journalists for having reported the stories in the first place, and arguing that -- well, I don't know what they're arguing regarding foreign intelligence reports, unless it's that foreign intelligence agencies alter the contents of the intelligence they gather. An acquaintance who has the trait of being an apologist for All Things Thai demanded to know what *my* sources are to question what's going on. Of course I have none. Yet I find it difficult to believe that respected foreign media and respected foreign intelligence agencies somehow are all in collusion to try to damage Thailand. I guess that such may be possible, even true, in theory -- but let me repeat: in theory. In any case, I can't imagine any harm in checking out the claims instead of following the old cliché of killing the messenger. * * * * * * * * * * Tourism Surge In the past week I've noticed a significant increase in patrons of bars, restaurants, and the like. As an ardent supporter of the tourism industry in all its many facets in Thailand, I hope this bodes well for the nation and for individuals employed in the tourism sector. * * * * * * * * * * Uniform Decorations In his always enjoyable weekly column series Humanity Wrap, the excellent journalist Roger Beaumont makes a few observations in a serious vein about the security situation at Bangkok's Don Muang Airport, where the departure areas at all 3 terminals are ripe for disaster in their areas where passengers alight and board ground transportation. But in reading his Sunday, November 17th column, I was reminded of a lighter note. . . . When one observers uniformed police officers, military personnel, and security officers, it is striking at how many ribbons, badges, and medals they sport on their breasts, particularly eye-catching when the uniform-clad individual appears to be maybe 16 years old. The first thought one has, "Is that legal -- for a teenager to be in uniform???" The second thought is, "HEY! Is he carrying a GUN???" But if you've never taken the time to make a sidelong examination of the fruit salad adorning a uniformed chest, amuse yourself and do so. I don't think I've *ever* seen a uniformed person not sport at *least* jump wings, indicating qualification for jumping out of airplanes (with parachutes, one hopes), and not so many without *pilot* wings, for heaven's sake. At least that's what they look like. I've seen other badges and medals signifying what I haven't the faintest notion, though they all look mighty impressive -- I sometimes am left to ponder how exhausting it must be to the poor wearer to work a 12-hour shift with so much extra weight dragging him down; heck, paratroopers in full combat gear likely wear less extra weight than any self-respecting hotel security officer! I once was waiting for a taxi in front of a major Sukhumvit Road hotel when the security guard standing directly beside me engaged me in friendly conversation. He spoke amazingly good English (a good thing, since even after more than 8 years my Thai is restricted to the essential phrases "Hello," "Goodbye," "Thank you," Where's the latrine?" and "Gimme another beer"). I, um, "delicately" inquired his age, as this particular heavily bemedalled, beribboned individual looked about 11, and was comforted when he said he was 22. It was also comforting that his only [visible, anyway] weapon was a small night stick. I then asked him about the numerous medals and badges, as well as the 4 rows of ribbons, each row containing 3 individual ribbons. He looked down at his own chest at the veritable fruit salad-cum-metal supply shop gracing his uniform front, then raised his smiling face to me and said, "These? I don't know. The sergeant gave them to me when I was hired and told me to wear them." Well, it looks good -- though the young officer got as curious as I was when I said I hoped he never was called up to make a combat jump -- from the top of this high-rise hotel, perhaps? -- or to pilot a fighter jet, each possibility suggested by the 2 different sets of wings on his bosum. Perhaps it would be more accurate to say he looked slightly agitated at the thought, particularly when he craned his neck to peer straight up the side of the hotel, no doubt wondering if a parachute would even have time to get out of the backpack let alone fully open -- before he became just another splatted memory on the driveway. But I suppose this practice does serve its useful psychological purpose of subconsciously comforting observers who equate such displays with high accomplishment and extraordinary reliability and achievement. Of course, that leaves begging the question of just how one would pry the hands of that guard loose from the safety railing around the hotel roof's edge and fling him out into open space for his "combat jump." What? What did you say? There isn't a safety railing? Are you joking? In Thailand??? But the law *requires* one! . . . * * * * * * * * * * A New Venue of Sukhumvit Soi 63 Bob and Sam, owners of the popular The Office Bar & Grill on Sukhumvit Soi 33 officially took over The Violin on Soi Ekamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) Tuesday, the 19th -- the same day as the beautiful traditional Thai festival, Loy Khrathong. * * * * * * * * * * Good News from China Mao Zedong ("Chairman Mao") led his victorious Communist troops into Beijing in late 1949, declaring the establishment of The People's Republic of China on October 1st that year. Increasingly prosperous over the last 2 decades, ever since the then supreme leader, Deng Xiaoping, threw the formerly isolationist nation's doors open to the world, throughout the nation's 53-year history, leadership changes have been plagued. No longer. Last week saw 6 new members elected to the all-powerful 7-member Central Committee of the Chinese Communist Party, the de facto leaders of the world's largest nation. Actually, the 7th is also new to the Central Committee, but he has been being groomed to follow in the footsteps of the just-retired Central Committee chairman and still President Jiang Zemin. It is a major change, in fact a generational one, power shifting from the hands of Jiang Zemin and his so-called "Third Generation" -- after Mao's First one and Deng's Second one -- into the hands of the younger Fourth Generation. True, it was carefully orchestrated, the "election" results known in advance to those in the Inner Sanctum -- but it was the first orderly transition of power in the nation's history. "What on earth does any of that have to do with Thailand?" you ask? -- I'll tell you what it has to do with it: regional peace, stability, and prosperity. The northernmost reaches of Thailand practically bump into the southern belly of China's Yunnan Province, seperated from it only by narrow slivers of Laos and Burma from doing so. With all the talk going on in various quarters of Asian unity, to have the neighborhood's 800-pound gorilla calm and happy is critical if such dreams of unity are ever to be realized. "Hey, I'm going to Thailand for a holiday, so what do I care if the commies shoot each other in the streets of Beijing, several hours away even in a jet?" I can hear you ask. Well, think of the terrorist situation. China and America are cooperating on the issue; in fact, for the short- to medium-term it appears that the denizens of those 2 nations' corridors of power have decided their common needs override their competing ones, freeing China to a tremendous extent to help ALL of Asia become a safer, more prosperous place. And with her draconian legal system, it wouldn't cause me to shed any tears if various terrorists happened to get arrested on Chinese soil. Already an increasing number of tourists arriving in Thailand are from China, albeit lower-budget ones than some other arrivals are. But just to pull some numbers out of thin air, let's say 300,000 mainland Chinese visit this year, each spending directly, say, 10,000 baht a day over the course of a 6-7 day visit. That adds up to 3,000,000,000 baht (almost US$ 70 million) extra for Thailand. And I'm willing to bet that's a conservative estimate on the spending, given the Chinese fondest for souvenirs and gifts to take home. And I haven't even mentioned the ever-increasing trade that'll be advanced when the highway connecting Thailand, Laos and China is completed, nor when the railway across Laos is built, enabling one to board a train in Singapore and go all the way to London! And freight trains will also play those tracks. * * * * * * * * * * Nanapong Message Board for Information I'd like to remind readers that a great source of up-to-date information, especially about the Sukhumvit area, is the superb message board run by the fine folks over at www.Nanapong.com. There are all sorts of topics covered, and they aren't restricted to Bangkok or the bar scene. But do use adult judgment regarding viewing of the site by children, as some of the comments can be pretty, um, "earthy." As with any message/discussion board, it's better for you to read a fair number of messages to get an idea of the flavour and feel of the board. It's also important to remember that the moderator's do NOT like flaming, nor anything objectionable such as racist statements, etc. -- and the moderators WILL delete an offending post forthwith, and, if need be, block an offender who just won't get with the program and follow the rules. Oh -- I wouldn't mind your telling the Nanapongers you heard about their board from BangkokAtoZ.com! (Hey, every little plug helps!) * * * * * * * * * * Subway Start Delayed Nearly One Year Newspapers on Monday November 18th reported that the subway concessionaire has announced a delay in the opening of the subway in Bangkok from July, 2003 until at least May, 2004. Predictably, the concessionaire is blaming the government's MRTA for the delay, but the MRTA is saying concessionaire BMCL bears at least part of the blame. Just who *is* to blame is a serious question, given that if the concessionaire is found in fact to be at fault, it will be forced to pay a fine of 7,000,000 baht a day (US$161,663.00) -- a hefty penalty in anybody's book. You can read the story in the Bangkok Post here. * * * * * * * * * * Pattaya Trip Report Went to Jomtien (immediately south of the better-known Pattaya) and stayed Monday and Tuesday nights. Tuesday night was the occasion of the annual Loy Krathong festival, second in importance only to April's Songkhran Festival (Thai New Year). Loy Krathong is my personal favorite; to learn a bit about it, you can click here. First let me report on some places. As I always do, I stayed at the Moonshine on Jomtien Beach Road Soi 7. This is a great little guesthouse I've mentioned before. The regulars are faithful, and most of the staff long-serving, so many people know each other. For 500 baht you get a clean room with cable TV, air-conditioning, and a hot-water shower -- PLUS an hearty American breakfast. Definitely worth considering for your base of operations when you find yourself in the area. Just around the corner as one comes off Jomtien Beach Road heading towards Pattaya there's a small Internet shop on the right. It's impossible to miss as it's housed in a distinctive, eye-catching A-frame structure. It's air-conditioned, and has excellent equipment and good connections -- and costs only 1 baht/minute (cheap by Bangkok standards). The name is, simply, "Internet" -- at least that's what the sign says. Almost directly opposite is an open-on-3-sides bar named "Country Road III." I've been there before (and written about it before), and like it. Open from 9:00 A.M. until 1:00 A.M., it has an especially generous Happy Hour 9:00 A.M. - 6:00 P.M., during which span all beers are 55 baht. It has seating along the bar and at several tables. There are 2 pool tables. There also are a TV and [CD] music. Worth a visit. In the opposite direction, about a kilometer past Jomtien Beach Road Soi 7 on the left (east) is Nightlife Bar, a small affair open on 2 sides, the important one being the side facing the beach just across the road. Run by the affable Howie, this is a great bar just to relax. His waitresses are all very nice -- and even the plainest among them was really lovely the evening of Loy Krathong, when they all had their hair and make-up done professionally and were dressed in stunning traditional Thai dresses. Up Pattaya way I *finally* made it to my friend Darrell's Mexican food restaurant, Tequila Reef, coincidentally on Beach Road Soi 7. Let me tell you -- the food is GREAT, and served in he-man portions at very reasonable prices. I had an excellent taco soup, a simply HUGE burrito, and chips with guacamole salad. Wonderful, simply wonderful, if far too much for me to eat at one sitting. The place is physically very comfortable, with booths, tables, and seating along the bar. It's air-conditioned, and there's CD music. There are also tables outside for people who want to smoke and watch life go by. Darrell's cousin Rob is the chef, and a fine job he does of preparing the food. If you like Mexican food at all, be sure to pay Darrell and Rob a visit -- and tell them I sent you. And say hello to the friendly waitresses, too. And for those of you looking for a great place to celebrate American Thanksgiving, on Thanksgiving day they're offering an all-you-can-eat Thanksgiving buffet for the amazingly low price of 495 baht. Serving starts at 2:00 P.M. Tequila Reef is located about 30-35 meters inside Soi 7 from Beach Road, Soi 7 being beside the police station (almost). Open daily 11:00 A.M.-"Late." My last place to talk about is The Alamo, an open-front bar on Pattaya's Beach Road Soi 8, almost straight across the block from Tequila Reef. Soi 8 is on the other side of the police station from Soi 7. The gregarious American Gary own The Alamo. He's in the process of modifying it slightly; by the time you read this, he should have moved the long bar table back into the bar a bit, closer to the bar along part of the right wall and the sofas lining the left. His plan is to move the furniture on the porch back some, some of it up into the bar, thus clearing a space on the front part of the porch. There will be an outdoor grill there, where Gary will grill hamburgers, hot dogs, and corny dogs. Gary asked me to let you know that he's having a "Re-Opening" Party Monday, November 25th from 5:00 P.M. More importantly, if you go there and tell *him* -- he's blond, and has a booming voice -- "Mekhong Kurt sent me," he'll give you one beer of your choice, on the house. Can't beat that! Finally, let me say a little about Loy Krathong. It really is a beautiful festival, during which people place charming floral floats containing a candle and maybe a bit of money into any body of water, preferably a natural one, though an artificial one is fine. Folks also release hot-air lanterns to soar up and away. The ladies dress up, and it's a day and evening of general merriment, eating and drinking, and setting off fireworks. I came out of the Moonshine about dusk, and walked down to the beach and was delighted to see numerous krathongs -- the floral floats -- already in the sea. Even more delightful was the majestically drifting flotilla of lanterns gently drifting through the sky. The wind was perfect, moving at low speed north to south, exactly parallel to Jomtien Beach. It was stunningly beautiful, perhaps in part while I knew of the custom, I had never seen it and frankly had forgotten all about it until I spotted the first lanterns to come into my view as I walked down towards the beach. Short as the trip was, I had a grand time of it. I hope you'll visit all the places I've talked about -- they're all well worth your time. * * * * * * * * * * E-mail Change Notification Sign-up Sign-up here for e-mail notification when I add or change something on the site. Just go to the sign-up page. * * * * * * * * * * Travelers' Tales Got a "Traveler's Tale"? -- send me a line! MekhongKurt@BangkokAtoZ.com * * * * * * * * * * County-n'-Western Concert Was pleased to catch up with the talented Marcus Sugg, the C&W singer of increasing fame. I can now confirm he will give a FREE performance beginning about 7:00 P.M., Saturday, November 23rd at The Texas Lone Staar. CD's of Marcus singing both his own songs and old favorites by other performers he does will be available for sale. Texas Lone Staar is on the east side of Washington Square, i.e., the side nearest the Emporium. From Sukhumvit Road, turn left into the drive, then left again in front of the Mambo Cabaret. A few feet further you have to turn right; once you turn, the restaurant is about halfway down the row of shops on your left. From Sumkhumvit Soi 22, turn into the drive opposite the Regency Park Hotel, then turn left at the first opportunity. When you have to turn right, do so -- that'll bring you in front of the Mambo cabaret; follow the directions above from there. Drop on by and hear great music and meet a wonderfully friendly gentleman. * * * * * * * * * * Link Exchange If anyone reading this has a website and would like to place a link there for BangkokAtoZ.com, you can copy-and-paste the banner and text link below into your site; they are live links to this site's homepage:
I'll appreciate an e-mail telling me the URL of where you placed it. If you want me to put a link on BangkokAtoZ.com for your site, do tell me where you have placed our link, and I'll give you a link in a comparable position, of the same nature (i.e., banner-for-banner, text-for-text). * * * * * * * * * * Until next time -- Sawasdee khrap! Mekhong Kurt
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