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The Rounds January 28, 2001
* * * * * * * * * * PLEASE REMEMBER! This coming Saturday, February 2, 2002 is the date of what is rapidly becoming a major charity drive for underprivileged children, the Annual Charity Garden Fayre arranged by the folks at DTC Travel here in Bangkok. For more information, click here. And be sure to stop by -- it'll be a day of great food and entertainment, all for amazingly cheap! * * * * * * * * * * The came-in-two-parts cool season has come-gone, come-gone -- the second time for good. While the hot season isn't exactly upon us yet, it sure is plenty warm in Bangkok itself, which often is considerably warmer than well outside the metropolis. But a quick look at the weather in Europe shows that only Madrid is forecast to have clear skies and pleasant temperatures topping out at 17°C/62°F -- but even that is quite a bit cooler than the highs around 32-33°C/90-92°F under clear skies we're experiencing here in Bangkok. And it looks like Europe is going to be moving into colder-by-the day and unpleasant conditions this week. As for the U.S., north of a line from about the northern state line of North Carolina west across the tops of Tennessee, Arkansas, Oklahoma, New Mexico, and Arizona on over to around San Francisco looks to have temperatures below 16°C/60°F as we move into the new week. So those of you stuck in chillier climes wishing YOU were somewhere WARM -- THINK BANGKOK! Or Phuket. Or Chiang Mai. ANYwhere in Thailand is warmer than Europe or North America. Or, for that matter, much of Asia itself. * * * * * * * * * * Looks like Prime Minister Thaksin has gotten his wish to fold his coalition partner, the New Aspiration Party (headed by General Chavalit), into his own Thai Rak Thai ("Thai Love Thai") ruling party, giving the P.M. an overwhelming majority in Parliament and the Senate. Predictably, there was some opposition from a minority of members in both parties, but when the N.A.P. membership voted, the vote was overwhelmingly for dissolving the party and merging into T.R.T. Some are expressing fear that the P.M. is getting too strong, personally, given his extremely thin skin. He has demonstrated a willingness -- even an eagerness, it might be argued -- to use state power to achieve his ends, even when those ends are sharply questioned and criticized. The biggest immediate fear is that the P.M. will be able to lead a successful effort to amend -- read "eviscerate" -- the Constitution. We already have an Election Commission staffed, in part, with members of dubious qualification -- and that's putting it politely. While critical articles continue to appear in the newspapers, it appears to me that both major English-language dailies have pulled in their horns considerably, presumably the result of self-censorship. The brouhaha over the banning of a recent edition of the highly respected Far Eastern Economic Review has yet to die down, though it remains unclear whether or not the government has pursued its threat of legal action against the magazine. * * * * * * * * * * His Majesty the King recently presided over the laying of the cornerstone of the new airport, himself placing the stone, naming the airport, and blessing it. A project 4 decades in the making, with Royal endorsement and support, undoubtedly the massive project will proceed quickly now. Numerous questions remain, not least of which is how best to transport Bangkok-area-bound passengers into town. I personally have little problem with Don Muang Airport, either as an airport or as a destination from the city center -- now that the Airport Tollway handily links the two. But given the almost dead-certainty that tourism will rebound with time, a new airport is necessary. I sure was glad to see His Majesty get involved, since obstacles will vanish like ice slivers in the Bangkok summer sun. * * * * * * * * * * Interior Minister Purachai continues to irritate owners of night spots, but also continues to enjoy considerable public support. There are criticisms of his not attacking far more serious problems -- widespread corruption is often mentioned -- but he has shown no signs of willingness to back off. The presumed merger of the coalition's two main parties will almost certainly strengthen his hand enormously, and make him virtually unassailable. But even his supporters wonder aloud why such a senior member of government doesn't leave it to his minions to crawl around under tables in a nightclub at 3:00 A.M. looking for used condoms instead of taking it upon himself to do so. * * * * * * * * * * I'm going to make a prediction that I may have to eat later: my money is on Queen's Park Plaza's (Sukhumvit Soi 22) not making it. As I already said in an earlier column, one bar has already closed and re-opened, but remains as devoid of customers as it was in its previous incarnation. One beer bar has already gone toes up, and as of yesterday was being gutted down to the bare walls; I assume another beer bar will follow. The seafood restaurant is moving into its third format since it opened less than 3 months ago, now offering pool table in the former inside dining area. I personally know of 2 bars whose owners are actively seeking buyers. True, one inside bar is about set to open, with a second place undergoing modeling, but I just don't see the numbers of customers needed to support roughly 20 outlets. For that matter, one has to wonder about the bars in Soi Cowboy and Clinton Plaza whose owners don't have deep pockets. I rarely hit the latter, but friends who do report that other than those places opening directly onto Sukhumvit Road, the bars there are hurting. I can attest to Soi Cowboy spots; it's not difficult to step into the soi and gaze clear to the other end without seeing another foreigner, tourist OR resident. Even Sukhumvit Soi 33 is far quieter than I've ever known it to be in my nearly 8 years here. I REALLY hope I'm wrong in my prediction about Q.P.P. But for whatever reason, the tourists just aren't coming. * * * * * * * * * * There is a new bar on Sukhumvit Soi 22, "Steven's Bar," but I haven't checked it out yet, so can't say anything. It's located on your right, coming from Sukhumvit Road, maybe 40 meters down the soi. Will report on it later. * * * * * * * * * * The Doll House on Soi Cowboy is scheduled to open February 8th, and reportedly will have an opening bash. I plan to attend, and will let those of you unable to be there know how it goes. * * * * * * * * * * Went over to the Cambodian border last Friday, only my second trip there. I personally dislike going there, but it *is* the nearest place to go for visa purposes. A bus ticket from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminus to Aranyaprathet -- the Thai town 6 kilometers from the border -- is 185 baht, with tuk-tuk rides to and from the border running about 50-60 baht each way. A Cambodian visa costs 1,000 baht -- and to leave the same day costs another 100 baht, which is an out-and-out racket as it goes straight into the border officials' pockets. At least they're up front and open about it. So, all told, one can make the run for around 1400 baht plus whatever one spends for food and drink. Plus, of course, fares for getting to and from the Northern Bus Terminus. The bus takes about 4-1/2 to 5 hours going and 5 to 5-1/2 hours coming, on average. I chose to rent a van, and while by the time I paid the rental fee, gas charges, and toll fees I spent just over 3,000 baht, the fact that the trip out took me only 3-12 hours and the return trip just 4 hours made it well worthwhile. I had the bad luck of going on a busy day, ending up taking 1 hour and 40 minutes all told to cross then re-cross the frontier -- and it was hotter than blue blazes when I arrived at the border itself at precisely high noon. I haven't venture beyond the border either time I've been to Poi Phet, the Cambodian town sitting right next to the border. The first time I was there it was muddy -- the main drag was dirt. It since has been paved, and if you have any interest in casinos, there are several right there. There *is* some lovely countryside along the way. If you travel in a private vehicle, don't worry about fuel and the like; the highways are dotted with places, most sandwiched with 7-11-type convenience stores. So food, drink, fuel, restroom breaks, etc. aren't any problem. Much as I dislike traveling *anywhere* by land outside Bangkok, for people in this general area needing to exit the Kingdom for visa purposes, I have to say that Poi Phet is the nearest destination and the cheapest to reach. One note: should you be leaving because your visa is expiring, all you'll get on re-entry is a normal visa-on-arrival. The number of countries whose nationals receive this visa has dwindled, and the number of days granted varies by nationaility, so check before you go whether you're eleigible and how long you can get. The Immigration Bureau's page listing eligible nationalities and how long they can stay is at http://www.police.go.th/thaiimb/frames2.htm -- but I suspect it hasn't been updated; it lists countries whose nationals receive 15-day, 30-day, and 90-day visas. (Only lucky folks from Brazil, South Korea, and New Zealand get the 90-day one!) Keep in mind that technically you are supposed to apply for a visa at a Thai embassy or consulate *outside* the Kingdom, no matter your nationality -- the visa-on-arrival is strictly a courtesy, as noted on the page linked above. I know from exprience that airlines departing from U.S. soil flat won't allow one to board without a visa or an onward or return ticket. (I've heard of exceptions -- but they're rare, and remain without explanation.) Incidentally, Poi Phet has become a favourite destination of the "we-don't-have-a- clue-where-he-is" family of former Army Sub-Lieutenant Duangchalerm, who remains a fugitive from justice. At least it was until someone popped a couple of grenades or small bombs in a casino they were visiting and from which they hastily scurried, though authorities on both sides of the border were quick in their proclamations that the incident had NOTHING to do with the Duangchalerm case. * * * * * * * * * * Until next time -- Mekhong Kurt
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