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Travelers' Tales

The following tale comes from reader James Parsons.  While it goes back a number of years, in his e-mail tome containing this story James observed in felt it appropriate in these post-9/11 days, a time when it is sometimes too easy for non-Muslims to assume the worst of the Islamic world. -- Mekhong Kurt

"A Tale of Muslim Hospitality"

I first married in 1983.  Money was very tight.  English teachers made 80 baht an hour at at least one school.  And it was time for my first visa run.
 
I opted for Kota Bahru.  My new wife came along on the bus.  I started to get off in the middle of nowhere just because it looked closest to KB on the map.  The driver kept me on board to Sungai Golok.  First disaster averted.
 
My sweet Thai wife had no passport, and stayed on the Thai side with almost no money.  I took what little we had for the bus to KB and the visa fee.
 
Crossing the border (just a rural bridge back then), a gruff Malaysian guard asked if I'd read "the sign" ("Death for Drugs - dump 'em here if have 'em").  I gulped and nodded.
 
I showed up just before closing at the consulate.  I learned that there was a Muslim holiday the next day.  I was going to be stranded without money for four days.  My wife would be, too, and I had no way of letting her know why.  (Thirty day visas at the land border weren't an option back then.)
 
The embassy employee opted to help me.  I had no passport photos.  He said nothing.  He didn't have to; his facial expression spoke volumes about what an ass I was. 
 
I ran back into town, got the photos and returned.  The consulate had closed.  The officer was waiting in the bushes with the stamps.  He processed me and sent me on my way.  I tried to give him a bottle of booze to thank him.  I might just as well have offered a ham sandwich.  I really was a cherry boy.

Second disaster averted, I made it back to the border.  Dear wife had walked from town to the border in heels to save ten baht.  I splurged and we rode to a cheap hotel.

I had no idea how dangerous the south could be for us, and despite each going out alone, we were neither robbed nor assaulted.  Third disaster avoided.

We hopped a third class train (my first 3rd class train for Sungai Golok to Bangkok but not my last - I'd do it twice more eleven years later) and reached Thonburi intact.

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Copyright © 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002,  2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007,  and 2008  by Kurt T. Francis, except as  noted otherwise.  Materials by Christopher G. Moore, Dean Barrett, Richard K. Diran, Sonia Pressman Fuentes, and Hardy Stockmann are copyrighted © by those respective authors.  All rights reserved.  Please see the Copyright Notice for further information.

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