L
Land of a Million Elephants [Laos]. Laos is called this because of the numerous elephants which used to roam its forests and jungles.
Language. Thai is, of course, the official language of the Kingdom. However, in northeast Thailand, many people are conversant in Laotian, as people in areas near the Cambodian border are in Khymer, or Cambodian. Thai is written in an alphabet, and as such it is easier to learn to read and write Thai than it is a character-based language (Chinese or Japanese, for instance). However, it is a fairly complicated alphabet, and presents a bit of a challenge to the novice. The spoken language is tonal; like Mandarin Chinese, it has 4 tones plus an unstressed option; tones generally are the hardest part of learning Thai for people whose native language isn’t tonal. There are surprisingly few Thais who speak foreign languages in Bangkok, given that it not only is the capital city, but is the city of the country (at 40 times larger than its nearest competitor, Chiang Mai, it in fact has no domestic competition), and is one of the world’s great cities.
Language Schools. These abound, especially in Bangkok; a few years ago a local newspaper estimated there were over 400 legitimate (meaning licensed – not necessarily good – ones) in just Bangkok. These vary widely in quality and price, if more in the former than in the latter. All major languages are available, somewhere. Many foreigners avail themselves of the services of these schools to learn Thai, and numerous schools have fine Thai teachers. Perhaps the school enjoying the best reputation is AUA, though there are a number of excellent schools around. Ask around. When you have a short list, visit the schools on it, and question the staff closely about matters such as refunds, cancellations (by either the teacher or you), etc. Also ask to meet some teachers and students – and try to question the students privately.
Laos. Laos is an impoverished, landlocked country to Thailand’s immediate northeast, which it abuts. A rugged, beautiful country with some of the friendliest people in the world, this unfortunate nation of roughly 4 million was devastated by the economic crisis, during which it’s currency plunged to about 1/10th its pre-crisis value. With outstanding hard-currency loans, the nation was (and remains) in desperate straits. In earlier decades, it had the dubious distinction of being the site of a secret (to Americans and Westerners generally) "sideshow war" during the Vietnam War era. Previously a monarchy, Laos’ domestic communist insurgents, the Pathet Lao, won control almost simultaneous to the fall of South Vietnam in the 1970’s.
Very suspicious of outsiders, the government is only slowly opening the country up; to date, there has been no significant movement towards an extensive "Open-Door Policy" such as China introduced in the late 1970’s. generally, foreigners, except Thais, coming from Thailand must enter either via air into Vientiane, the dusty, sleepy capital on the bank of the Mekhong River almost directly opposite the Thai border city of Nongkhai (the two lie about 20 kilometers apart, actually) or via the Friendship Bridge connecting Nongkhai to Vientiane’s rural outskirts. You can get a visa on arrival, at least at the airport (the Friendship Bridge is apparently not consistent about this), for US$30, payable, preferably, in US dollars, though Thai baht are accepted at the prevailing exchange rate. Vientiane and other points are well worth visiting; as noted, the Laos people are extremely friendly. One of this site’s founders and another American were walking down the main street of Vientiane late one evening only to have a family come out of the shop house they were passing to invite them in for the birthday party in progress for a family member!
Laos Aviation. The national airline of Laos, connecting Vientiane and Bangkok; the Bangkok-Vientiane flight takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes. The airport is only a short distance from the small capital’s center, where the city’s few hotels and guesthouses are clustered within the tiny central business district.
Lard Phrao. A major artery running from north Bangkok east and southeast in the general direction of Bang Na. Coming from the airport, one passes Lard Phrao on the left; the street continuing off to the right Phayathai Road, another major area. Somewhat removed from the better-known entertainment venues and the concentrations of foreigners in the central business district and along Sukhumvit Road, this area even so is popular with substantial numbers of resident expatriates. It is largely off the tourist path, however.
Larry’s Dive [Sukhumvit
Soi 22]. This restaurant-bar is on the far corner of
the second sub-soi -- a driveway, really, giving
access to a handful of establishments along each
side and at the end -- on the
right
coming from Sukhumvit Road. More upscale than most
places in the immediate neighborhood, it is quite
popular, particularly among those with an interest
in scuba and skin-diving, as it is connected to the
adjacent dive shop of the same name.
The Manager of Larry’s Dive e-mailed me to update this description in May, 2002, and with good reason, since the situation there has changed dramatically -- and for the better. We previously had given it an at best so-so review, but I myself (Mekhong Kurt) have become a fairly regular visitor there to partake of their excellent food, all of it reasonably priced.
Among my particular favorites are the burritos, chili (Tex-Mex style), and the Rueben sandwich. Cowboy Jon, my sidekick, favors the pork cutlet sandwich, which reminds him of diners in Iowa, where he grew up. (for the geographically-challenged, Iowa is an American state in that country's Midwest!) But all the food is good -- those are just our partialities!
The staff are uniformly friendly, and the service is excellent. Larry's Dive is a nice place to sit by the floor-to-ceiling windows (on two sides) and watch life go by along Sukhumvit Soi 22, which it fronts just a little ways inside the soi from Sukhumvit road, on your right coming from that direction.
There also is a dive shop attached, and if you enjoy this sport, the bar and shop are even more worth a visit.
Stop by and ask for the Manager, Sean -- and tell him
we sent you!
International cuisine,
including Mexican food. 8:00 A.M.-2:00 A.M. 8/3
Sukhumvit Soi 22, Khlong Toey, Bangkok 10110.
Telephone: (+66) (+2) 663-4563. Fax: (+66) (+2)
663-4561. E-mail: larrybkk@larrysdive.com
Website: http://larrysdive.com
Lat Phrao. [See entry for "Lard Phrao" above.]
Lek: "Little" or "Small"
Leo Beer. A domestically produced beet, Leo was introduced in the late 1990’s to compete against other low-end (and cheaper) beers by the brewers of Thailand’s best-known beer, Singha Beer. However, news reports hold that it has been most successful at taking market share from its own brewer’s other products. Many swear by it, so beer-drinkers should give it a try.
Leo Club [Sukhumvit Soi 33]. This hostess bar is the 7th on your right as you walk deeper into Soi 33 from Sukhumvit Road. In early April, 2000, we found it closed, with a sign saying it was under renovation; a month later, it was still closed, and the sign gone. [Note: the club has reopened, under the name “Santana’s.”]
Letters of Credit. Thai banks (and branches of international banks) offer such letters; getting them to honour foreign ones is, we’ve heard, a more difficult process. If you need one, contact any major bank.
Limousine Services. Limousine service is available at Don Muang Airport, and the prices are extremely competitive, currently (late May, 2000) about 600 baht (or roughly US$15) for a ride to the city center.
Lottery. Thais, in keeping with many other Asians, love to gamble, and the government runs a lottery every fortnight. The results are carried by the media with much fanfare, and the drawing of the winning numbers is televised nationally. The current maximum prize is 3 million baht, but there is no limit to the number of winning tickets, so people routinely by two tickets bearing the same number – and thereby win a double prize. There also is a parallel, but underground (and illegal), lottery against which the government of the day on any given day rants and raves, but which continues entirely unabated, as prizes can be much greater in it. One [legal] lottery ticket costs 45 baht. It’s common for winners to tip the seller from whom they purchased their winning ticket(s), and, with more substantial prizes, to donate a sum to a worthy cause – often to a Buddhist temple. Thais are very generous in this regard, being genuinely open-hearted (and open-handed) people, and being mostly Buddhists who believe such charity brings them merit.
Luciano’s 33 [Sukhumvit Soi 33]. This hostess bar, the 5th on your right as you walk along Soi 33 from Sukhumvit Road, is the latest-but-one addition to this small area of such bars. It quickly caught on, and is very popular with both local and expatriate businessmen. Tastefully appointed, it features a bar which snakes around, from the front portion of which one can twist around and watch street life through the large picture window. There are a couple of tables and a few chairs in the front end, and more in the rear, beyond the bar, for quieter, more intimate conversation. Music (CD’s). Open 4:00 P.M.-2:00 A.M. (1:00 A.M. Sundays). Happy Hour 4:00 P.M.-10:00 P.M. (an hour later than anywhere else on the street), with standard drinks priced at 70 baht, which is 10 baht cheaper than any other bar’s here.
Lumpini. Lumpini is a district in the center of Bangkok beginning at Rama IV Road and running north. Numerous embassies are located within its borders, as are such sites as Lumpini Park, Buckskin Joe’s Village, Nana Plaza, Thermae’s, and Clinton Plaza, many hotels of every description, untold restaurants and shops, etc.
Lumpini Park. Lumpini Park is a popular and large green spot right in the heart of Bangkok, a city woefully short of such locations. It fronts onto Rama IV Road on its south side between that road’s intersections with Sathorn Road`and Silom Road. Many events are staged here, events of just about every imaginable type, from open-air concerts to exhibitions of Thai boxing.
Lunar New Year. [See
entries for "Chinese New Year" (above) and
"Thai New Year" (below).]